October 5th to 13th When we had gone from Menorca to Sardinia and from Sardinia to Sicily, we heard U.S. Navy Warships announcing themselves as a US Navy Warship on the VHF. It was both comforting and scarry!!! We got to Acquasanta, Sicily at 7 pm on October 5th and then for the next three days we drove thru the surrounding towns of Palermo. The first day we drove in the town of Palermo which is an experience in itself. There are so many motorcycles and cars zipping around each other without the aid of traffic lights!!! Picture New York City WITHOUT any traffic lights and then add many motorcycles and motorscooters to make it more interesting. People seem to close their eyes and drive!!! We have hardly seen any traffic accidents in all of our travels. We saw 4 in and around Palermo; one fatality on a bike and most included scooters or bikes. Japan was busy, but this is crazy. We then left the town and drove to Bagheria. There we visited the Villa Palagonia which had an unbelieveable collection of gotesque sculptured figures on top of the walls that surrounded the castle. On the second floor there was a room depicting the Labors of Hercules with marble work and mirrors and paintings on the ceiling. Cefulu was our next stop and we had a great lunch at a little restuarant with a balcony jutting out over the water.(Cucina Tipica Sicillana). We saw the Temple of Diana and Daphene, as lengend would like us to believe, is still there imprisoned in the rock into which she was transformed!! We looked at the marina there and at Termini and decided that neither would do. Then back thru the maze of Palermo and to our boat!!! The next day (10/7)we took a picture of Hollywood or at least the sign!!! We decided to go inland to the town of Corleone where some of my ancestors lived. We found a quiet little park with benches and a fountain with goldfish and had our picnic lunch. We shared our scraps with two cats. We drove thru the towns going south until we reached Agrigento on the southern coast and visited the Valley of the Temples. High on a hill sat three huge temples with many minor structures between them. We had dinner at a quaint Italian resturant in Palermo. As we sat down we kept on hearing the word Americano on their TV. I heard the woman next to us speak English and asked if she understood what the newsmen were saying. She told us that America had just attacked Afghanistan. As we spoke we found out that she and her husband live in New York City and were about three blocks away from the Twin Towers when they were hit. She said the city is still burning and the dust is everywhere, but it is the smell that is most disconcerting. On Monday, we visited the Catheral in Palermo as well as the Palazzo dei Normanni and Cappella Palatine and drove past the Palazzo Preforia. Then thru the depths of Palermo to the town of Segusta where we found a Doric Temple and a Greek Theatre. We had lunch in Trapani at another great restuarant... are there any bad restuarants in all of Italy???? I don't think so!!!! On Tuesday, before we returned the car, we entered the Catacombs of Cappuccini. There we saw over 8000 wealthy Palermitans bodies, a few of them mummified, but most of them in a skeletal state, many are standing, some seated and others in caskets or crystal urns. What a way to end our stay in Palermo!!! Wednesday we woke up at 3:30 a.m. to travel almost 90 miles to Portarosa which is on the northeastern end of Sicily. For most of the day, there was no wind and therefore no wave action. It was a good relaxing day with seeing a couple of dolpins. We got a little help from the wind but not much. A light wind was on our nose for only the last 2 hours of our trip. The entrance and docking at Portorosa Marina was uneventful. We actually may be getting used to this stuff! After staying two nights at this quiet summer resort marina, we decided to fuel up and spend the night in the bay west of the marina. It was beautiful there and we were the only ones who stayed overnight. Comparison: Sardinia vs. Sicily: We found that Sicily is greener, better maintained,farmed more (tree farms as well as more sheep and horses) and generally more pleasing to the eye than Sardinia. Both had Pine Trees as well as Palm Trees, Olive Trees and both had Aquaducts and ruins popping up in fields as well as in cities! However, the men are much more handsome in Sardinia!! ARRIVEDERCI Italy we will be back!!! Rudy and I did a great deal of soul searching and investigation on whether we should go to Turkey for the winter because of the world situation and decided to continue on with our plans. Many people who are living aboard their sailing vessels in Turkey wrote to us telling us there is no problem and they feel extremely safe. The Turkish people were and are very compassionate concerning the happenings on September 11th and are doing everything possible to make their stay in Turkey a pleasant one. So we will be starting our journey to Turkey tomorrow, hopping from one Greek Island to the next until we get to Turkey. In Turkey we will only be 30 miles from Greece so a quick exit is always possible.