The Carribean Log Entry: January 28 We had a wonderful two months with family and friends and now it was time to go back to "Boundless". Stacy and Jaclyn took us to Stewart Airport (we needed two cars because we had 6 bags to check-in as well as 4 carry on bags). We said our goodbyes and went in to check our luggage. Everything was going smoothly until the woman behind the desk tried to lift the 6th piece of luggage and decided "SHE HAD HAD ENOUGH!!" She weighed the bag....75lbs!! Uh Oh....Now what?? We were willing to pay for the extra weight.... How much? After 15 minutes on the computer, she called her supervisor. After another 15 minutes, they discovered that because of the Christmas holidays, there was an embargo that limited each passenger to only 2 check-in bags with a 70lb limit on each piece. No exceptions were allowed!! We were not allowed to pay for the extra luggage or sweet talk our way out of it. WE HAD TO LOSE TWO PIECES OF LUGGAGE AND REDISTRIBUTE THE LOAD!!! We tried to reach Stacy so she could come back to the airport to pick up the luggage to take back home. She was going to the dentist and I could not reach her, but left her a message. I called Tom Smith (who was sick with the flu and did not tell us). There I was in the airport with all six pieces of luggage opened in the middle of the terminal trying to figure out what to take and what not to take. (It only took us three days to pack in the first place!!!!) I felt like I was in an "I Love Lucy" episode, watching the clock tick towards departure with all my personal things and boat parts spread out in the middle of the terminal with Ricky (Rudy) running back and forth to weigh the luggage to make sure each piece was under the 70lb limit.. I called Stacy to tell her Tom was coming, but it was too late. She had arrived and after she left with two of our bags, Tom arrived. After apologizing to Tom, (it is so wonderful to have FANTASTIC FRIENDS) we finally left and got to Trinidad a mere 15 hours later. Since we have been in Trinidad we have done many things with various groups of our fellow cruisers..... pot lucks, fish frys (grilled actually) along with sushi from the fresh tuna, Fete (Trini party), dinner out, trips to town (Port of Spain), visiting Mas camps (where they make and sell the costumes for Carnival), Pan Yards (where the Steel Bands practice), many trips to the local marine stores and of course DOMINOES!!! Life is tough in paradise.. Log Entry: February 16 Since we have been in Trinidad, we haven't made it out of the marina. We finally took the boat out away from the dock on Friday Jan. 19th - Sunday Jan. 20th to put hours on our re-built engine. We put about 20 hours on the engine traveling toward Venezuela, but staying both nights in Chacachacare. Thirty years ago this island was a leper colony. It had a major community with a good sized village and a road running all around, busy enough to have a traffic light! This village was abandoned as soon as a cure was found for the disease. There are many substantial buildings still intact including the nurses and doctors houses, and smaller houses in the village. There is also a manned lighthouse. At our marina, they are having four Carnival Seminars for cruisers experiencing their first Carnival in Trinidad. The first one told the history of the evolution of the Carnival itself. As they showed the costumes, they explained the reasons for them and how they evolved. Then they had a Pan Band (aka Steel Drum) and of course drinks, doubles, shark and bake and corn soup.. (Doubles = sort of crepe with curried chick peas in them. Shark and Bake = quick deep fried shark with many different sauces and trimmings. Corn soup=corn soup Trini style.) The other night we ate on a friend s boat. We had a Six Pack with Bustupshut. (Translation.. six pack is six buckets of food, bustupshut=pastry like bread which you pull apart) It was delicious!! That same night we read in the newspapers that a woman was PLAINASSED by her husband. It was a good thing he didn't use the sharp edge on the knife. (Plainassed= hitting someone with the broad side of a knife) Tonight we are going to practice doing MOKO JUMBIES for the Carnival Seminar on Feb. 14th. (MOKO JUMBIES are people dressed in costumes, walking on stilts up to ten feet off the ground) Rudy and I went three days in a row, progressing up to three foot stilts. It is a lot of hard work and great fun and exercise!!! Log Entry: February 28 We went to two Childrens Carnivals. The first Kiddies Carnival had the different bands (groups) going across a stage where we sat and took pictures. The second Kiddies Carnival had the different bands walking through the streets of Port-of-Spain where we were up close and personal..... and took pictures!!! There also was a Carnival called Viey La Cou which is exactly what the title says...Old Time Carnival. All the characters of the Carnival were from the first Carnivals in Trinidad with the history of each character explained. The last event we went to was the semifinals for the King s and Queen s costumes. They were an extravagant display of creativity using everything from natural seeds and branches to mylar, steel and fiberglass and costing many thousands of dollars and many months to complete. We were truly impressed and awe stricken. We went to the Moko Jumbies again and I went to 4.5 feet. I felt like I was ten feet tall!!! It was great fun and Rudy and I appreciate fully the kids and young adults who walk and dance for up to ten hours during Carnival!!!! (They were marching behind us for Pretty Mas) J'Ouvert came at 1:00 a.m. on Monday, February 26th. This is Trinidad's process of "awakening the day". J'Ouvert is the darkness before the beauty of the light, the beauty that takes the Trinis back to the days when, (clothed only in scraps and dirt) they worshipped each other as a newly freed people. Some people enjoy frolicking in the cool morning; while others enjoy the chance to wear mud and paint and smear it on others. Then there are those who sing, chip and whine with the very loud music trucks with anyone and everyone!! We tried and did everything as Yachties in moderation, not as Trinis!!! Pretty Mas came at 5:00 a.m. on Tuesday, February 27th. It is one last glorious outburst of creativity, song, music, motion and color before the sober, more spiritual 40 days of Lent. It has a long history from both European and African traditions which celebrates many sides of life including death, and fear, as well as beauty, energy and enthusiasm. We joined the Mas Camp called Legends in one of their 15 sections called Aqua Zone. There were 200 people in each section and this was NOT the largest of the 25+ Mas Camps. People walked across the stage in many different colors and costumes, all having themes and history, from 11 a.m. to 8:30 p.m. nonstop. We recorded this day on our VCR and actually saw ourselves on Trini TV!!! It has been an exhausting couple of weeks and we will rest up before leaving Trinidad for places not decided as of yet! Log Entry: March 15 Carnival is over - A Reflection: Well...Carnival is over and it took us two days of sleep and rest to recover. J'Ouvert was fun and very interesting with everyone with paint on their faces and bodies and then later with mud all over. We walked or "chipped", slow walking in time to a calypso beat at close to 100 decibels, for about 3.5 hours. We all thought we looked much better before the sun rose!!! One of the YACHTIES had breakfast waiting for us when we got back...which was great!! Pretty Mas or Carnival Tuesday was much longer and hotter. After standing and waiting in our costumes to get on the stage to be judged for about 2.5 hours and before that walking for about 4 hours, we were overdone!!! (We taped it from the TV and actually saw ourselves!!! ) The Trini newspapers have listed the winners of Carnival and we were part of the winning "band" Legends. It is nice to be part of a winning team! When Rudy went to get our developed photos at a local photo store, he noticed a display of carnival pictures that included a picture of ME on stage with our group that a local photographer had taken. He bought it for me.(he probably would have bought all of them if he had enough money!!) Rudy found a water and diesel leak in our new rebuilt engine. He fixed them both so we could use our sailboat for sailing again and not as a RV. We also provisioned the boat again since Trinidad is so much cheaper than the islands to the north of us. We also stopped to say goodbye to Dragon and give him some pictures of his Moko Jumbies. He wanted to make and give me my own stilts!!! I explained that our boat wasn't big enough to store them. We have been going from one Carnival Event to another for the past 6 weeks and now it is time to move on. So the next day (3/5) we went to Chacachacare Island and visited the hospital, church and other buildings that were used as a Leper Colony. Records and medicine were still all over the floors and shelves. It was quite remarkable!!! We left the island at 3:30 am and arrived in Tobago at 5 PM (3/6). We traveled in the lee of Trinidad most of the way. The wind was 5-15 knots on our nose with seas about 2-4 ft. The final 2+hrs of the trip was a reach to Tobago with wind and seas a little higher....A nice trip! We anchored in a harbor called Store Bay and relaxed and enjoyed the beautiful scenery and breeze. Because of the Northern Swell, we traveled to two other anchorages to try to be protected. It didn't work. Anse Barlet was on the East coast and a beautiful setting. We had dinner there and as we ate we could watch our boat dip and sway. I started to get sea sick on land. (I don't when I am on the boat!!) From there we went to Man of War Bay in Charlottesville. Again it was very rolly AND there was a fishing tournament so the anchorage was very crowded. We went on shore for lunch and to call Stacy and Jaclyn. I had to thank Stacy for going to my parents' house to help them with an e-mail problem. She was able to fix the problem and now I am able again to communicate with my parents!!! Thank you Stacy!!! We returned to Store Bay (3/10-3/11) and rented a car for two days. We drove around the island and visited the anchorages from land. (much less rolly) We ate lunch at a place called Footprints, an eco-resort and then at a brand new Hilton Resort, that looked like a world in itself, for dinner. There was a local choral group that did a fantastic job of entertaining the tourists. On Monday (3/12) we were ready to leave Tobago and go to Union Island about 90 miles away. After going to customs and immigration, (what fun!!) we made the boat ready for travel. We left at 6:30 PM and arrived at Union Island at 7:30 am on 3/13. The trip from Tobago was a good passage. We left in 10-15 kts of wind on a beam reach. The wind increased to about 20 kts by dark and stayed there for the balance of the trip. We had the sails reefed to minimize surprises. The seas became a bit confused shortly after dark, but no major problems. They were in the 6-10 ft range most of the night. It is really amazing how dark it is on the open sea with nothing around! About midnight the moon rose and gave us a good deal of light. This naturally made the millions of stars disappear, but it was also really neat to look back and see a path of light on the water that led directly to the moon. We did encounter a couple of other boats during the night with no problems. It was a quick trip with speeds of 6-8kts. After going to customs and immigration (what fun!), we traveled a couple miles away to the Tobago Cays and met about four other boats that were in Trinidad with us!! The next day we went snorkeling in Tobago Cays which is one of the most beautiful places I have visited so far!!! We are sitting in the middle of several uninhabited islands surrounded by a coral reef. This area is in the Grenadines between St. Vincent and Grenada. There are also several larger islands around like Bequia, Union, Palm, Mayreau, etc. It really is very nice. The weather here is 72 to 86 almost everyday with 15 kts +- out of the East. Is there anything better? By the way, no electricity, no water, no docks, no marinas or places to buy parts or food, etc. Just clear Caribbean water. It's Faith, me and Boundless. Life is good! From here we will continue our march north towards Antigua to start our journey across the Atlantic. Log Entry: April 15 We left St.Pierre around 6 a.m. and arrived in Dominica, Portsmouth at about 2:30 PM. The Boat Boys approached us offering everything from helping us with our lines, buying bread, fruit, etc. I am sure they would do other errands or odd jobs. They paddle out 3-5 miles in row boats and many times, surf boards. They stay with the boat until we have anchored. Since we didn't intend to leave the boat, this was very welcomed. We told our boat boy we wanted bread and some fruit. He came back in about 45 minutes with everything I wanted. The next day we left for Guadeloupe, Iles de Saintes. We stayed there until the 4th eating and visiting our favorite places and finding brand new ones that weren't there last year! When we got to Martinique, we finally talked to Stacy and Jaclyn. Stacy had pulled a REVENGE April Fool Joke. She told us that she had another job offer and was going to live in Syracuse. We had many e-mails going back and forth explaining what she should do to make the Condo secure in her absence. I did get suspicious and had a feeling it was Pay Back Time!! But Rudy said that it couldn't be a joke because she told us two weeks before April 1st and that would be CHEATING!!!! She cheated but she got us!!! We left Iles de Saintes and went to Deshaies, Guadeloupe to check into Customs. We went several times and days, but no one was ever there. We left on the 6th at 7AM and arrived in English Harbor, Antigua about noon and anchored right next to Endless Summer. (Friend's boat) We had a great sail and went ashore to go to Customs. They charge more than any other island in the Caribbean. The French Islands do not charge anything!!!! We met Feisty (Mel and Jackie) for drinks at the Admiral Club. The next day we took a bus to St.John's, the capitol of Antigua, to look around and to get parts for the boat. Palm Sunday we found a Catholic Church that was on a hill on the way to St. John's. The Parish priest was Irish and therefore we could understand him. He had a two hour service which incorporated both the traditional and the Caribbean. It was both interesting and rewarding. That night we went to Shirley Heights which overlooked English and Falmouth Harbors. What a beautiful sight! We watched the sun setting between the mountains in the background and did a good deal of people watching. The next day we went about three hours by boat to Green Island. This island had no inhabitants with two legs. We went swimming and Rudy flew his kite. Next to him was a Frenchman with a much LARGER kite with the lines tied to a large bar. He was wearing a life jacket. He was also standing on a short surf board with straps for his feet like on a wind surfer. He went flying around the harbor on the water with propulsion from the wind in his kite. It is just like water skiing with 20 kts of wind instead of a 20hp outboard. We went across the bay to the main land and had lunch at the most wonderful Italian restaurant On the 12th, we went back to Falmouth and anchored right in front of Feisty. We visited LULU and Ostricka and other cruisers having dinner or cocktails on their boats or ours. Easter Sunday we went back to the same Church and this time the Bishop, two Deacons and the parish priest participated in a wonderful service. Also, they had a steel band which played The Hallelujah Chorus at the beginning and other songs throughout the service. It was very well done with people singing with their bodies as well as with their voices!!! The next several days we did errands and interviewed young adults for our fourth crew member. There are many young people here because of the sailboat races. On Saturday the 21st, we went to see the Classic Boat Races in our dinghy. We were right in front on the starting line. The next day we watched from the beach; a little farther away but we did stay dry. The third day we decided to go to the top of a hill to watch the exciting climax of the races. Endeavor, a very beautifully restored sleek 130ft J Class sloop, beat Valshida, another J to break the tie going into the final race. The two beautiful W class boats collided going around the next to the last mark. No one was hurt, but there was a great deal of damage to the boats. It was really no one's fault, but it was a mess.... the same man owns both boats so he has double trouble. There were many different classes of boats in the race. The problem was caused when a smaller boat missed the mark and tried to go around it again. It stalled as the larger W class boats were approaching the mark. The first W class tried to go around the smaller boat and turned for the mark....too close in front of the other boat. The other W boat crashed into his starboard stern. It rode up on the stern, took out the safety lines and rails as well as stripping a large winch off the deck. The bow of the first boat was damaged and they left the race not knowing if they were taking on water or not. (they weren't) The boats are NOW all taped up with "duct tape" and will travel to Europe for repairs. They look very sad!!! I don't think I want to try racing...... There have been many parties this race week. The one that we especially enjoyed was at the Admiral's Inn at English Harbor. They had dinghy races and fun events in a storybook atmosphere. Tables were filled with tea and pastries on the lawn of this 1723 restored British Naval Station. We had the opportunity to speak to many of the racing teams while we drank our tea and ate our pastries. Other parties were a little more boisterous with free rum drinks and free hats. On The 28th, we went diving and did two dives from the St. James's Club. I was a little apprehensive because I have not done any diving since I was certified in June. I enjoyed the second dive much better, since I don't remember too much from the first dive... Just that I had to breathe and Rudy had to pull my fin and remind me I was at 92 feet!!! That night we went to an auction and Rudy almost got us two seats on a racing boat named Georgia. It is the largest sloop in the world; a magnificent, large sailing vessel! This week the Antigua Race Week begins. We sat on a hill with a couple hundred other people in a football "tailgate" atmosphere watching the start of the first race with binoculars and taking pictures. It is more exciting than I had imagined!! Well that is the month of April and in May we will be on another adventure. We will be leaving Antigua on May 10th to Bermuda. Then on May 23rd we leave Bermuda for the Azores and on June 23rd leaving the Azores for Portugal. We hope to arrive in Portugal the first week in July. Note: After May 10th the organization we are traveling with is going to have updates on all the boats on their web site: www.worldcruising.com Here they will give the latitude and longitude of each boat. PLEASE CHECK OUR DAILY PROGRESS. Make our voyage with us! We are also planning to continue our log on a more frequent basis until we reach Portugal as well! Log Entry: May 8 The last couple of days before our departure were still hectic, even after working to get ready for almost two months. Besides the boat we still had crew to worry about. We had been looking for another person to join us on our journey to Portugal. Well, we ended up with two. A couple of great young people with several years of experience around and on boats and they are easy to live with. We actually met them at Falmouth as we were looking for our crew. We saw them almost daily and developed a relationship that grew over a few weeks. We were very happy for them when they told us that they found a 47 foot Oyster that was on its way to England that was looking for two people to help with the delivery. They signed on. As it turned out they were in a slip two boats away from us in Jolly Harbour, Antigua when their captain informed them that the boat was sold....the day before they were to sail. With this we decided to make room for a fifth person on Boundless. So, Christopher and Kelli are joining us for our trip to Portugal. They helped to rearrange the stores and consolidate everything one more time before we left. We picked my cousin Dick up on Tuesday and everybody was ready to go. The World Cruising organization organized a party/gathering on each of the last three nights for of all of the 18 boats leaving from Antigua. The last few days were filled with topping off fuel and final provisioning, stowing and securing everything on board and getting ready to make the jump. The Atlantic Log Entry: May 10 We were the first boat out of the harbor towards the start on Thursday. We never did find the mark we were looking for but the committee boat finally did get out and fix the starting line. We did some maneuvering and hit the line within seconds of the start. We crossed about 4th. One of the boats, the scratch boat, a FARR 50, crossed the line with their spinnaker set. They quickly disappeared over the horizon. We got ours on deck, got it hooked up and were probably the third boat to set a spinnaker. We took it down after about two hours as the winds began to pick up. We had climbed to about 2nd place. The weather was very nice but a little light for Boundless. As the winds started getting towards 10 kts, boats started passing us. Boundless likes 15+ kts. Even though we were going slow we had a great night. Light winds bring light sea, 4ft was about average. It wasn't long before the moon brightened the entire area. Visibility was great! For our first night we couldn't have asked for more. Everyone is doing well. Faith even cooked a great meal of Pork Chops, Stuffing and Spinach. All the watches went well the first night. In the morning we did not get any wind increases. We had only 5-10 kts. We set the spinnaker before lunch and carried it all day. It was like a goat rodeo trying to set the spinnaker this morning. I'm glad we did better yesterday with the whole fleet watching! We think we are in 5th or 6th place and having a great time. Low seas, low winds, great food, good company and a good boat....What more is there? We are starting to settle into our routine and we are getting to know our crew much better. We made a good choice. It really isn't much of a problem with 5 people on board since everybody is working well together. Now all we need is a little more wind. The crew of the Boundless are on our way to Bermuda! Log Entry: May 12 We are now into our 3rd day in the ocean. It will probably be 4-5 more days till we reach Bermuda. The days and nights are quiet and peaceful. We really forget how dark it is on the open ocean with nothing around for many miles. The stars are incredible...you see more stars than you could possibly imagine. The moon was just past full so it rose a little late but it brought with it a very nice light to see our way. The sounds on a boat moving through the water at about 7-8kts are very nice. With no engine you hear the waves rolling off of the bow as it slices the water. You hear the water rolling down the sides as though it were boiling and you can watch it disappear in our wake. The boat rocks and rolls a bit, but since the winds were light we had very little movement for an open ocean. We have actually experienced anchorages that were rolling more then we have been for the last couple of nights. Sleeping is still tough at first. The sails and rigging are always moving. There are other people on watch right above your head and things always go bang in the night. Sea sickness was not a problem because of the light air and 3-5 ft seas. We stayed with the front pack of boats for a while even though the winds continue to decrease. The morning of the second day we set the spinnaker, but it didn't help much. We need a reasonable breeze for Boundless to shine! At about 8:00 we started the engine as our boat speed was down to 2-3kts. We will be penalized for running the engine, but I would rather get to Bermuda with a couple of days to rest before we start for the Azores. We were doing well even with the light air. We did 163 miles the first day and 135 miles the second. With 950 miles to Bermuda, it will take us close to a week if the winds hold. This morning we had two flying fish on board. Not big enough to eat, but they were neat to see up close. Everybody is doing well and catching up on their sleep during the day. We have been fishing for two days with not even a bite. Faith has some nice weather to learn, once again, how to cook on/in a moving platform. It is tricky and tough. The meals have surprised everybody...except me. They have been great! Tonight it is baked chicken, baked potatoes and broccoli and freshly baked bread. We all help her on occasion, but it is still the toughest job on board during a passage. Anybody want a job on our next passage? While the trip is slow, the conditions have been great! Stay in touch! Faith and Rudy Log Entry: May 13 Mother's Day was a beautiful sunny, calm, and peaceful day. I used our new Iridium phone to call my mother, Stacy and Jaclyn. That was such a wonderful Mother's Day gift; to hear those voices. My crew served me lunch and washed the dishes which was a real treat!!! The next day the weather was so calm that I decided to cook up a storm! (get to that later). I made blueberry muffins for breakfast, two loaves of bread and brownies for dessert. Then at 5 am on the 15th the weather changed... (I didn't do it!). The winds picked up and we took the jib in and reefed the main. The jib got caught and so did the main so he had to redo everything. The calm weather was gone. We sailed with the reefed main and stasail and felt like real sailors again. The next day the winds increased all day and when we hit 45 knots going through a squall line, the winds shifted and we were thrown off course. We had green water coming under the side and front windows, which flowed into the cockpit and went down into the main salon. Everything was wet including both computers and the display, and the Auto Helm didn't get wet, but still went down. Also, my aloe plant went flying across the main salon, so now I had mud everywhere. At about 5 PM the winds calmed down to a mere 20-30 knots. We arrived into Bermuda at 7:40 am on the 17th. We went through Customs (just call me Captain Faith... Rudy hates filling out those forms and since only the Captain signs the forms, I was elected!!). We Med moored (stern in and no posts to tie lines to, only the dock). We did some chores (5 loads of salty clothes) and said hello to the other cruisers. Then Dick took us out to dinner. We had a great meal at Freddie's and went to sleep!!! The next day (5/18) Dick left for the states and we ( Rudy, Faith, Chris and Kelli) went back to work on the boat. Rudy found places to bring the computers, the display and the canvass that were broken. So here we are on a scooter with me behind Rudy with the display on my back, the two laptops around my neck in front of me and the canvass in my hand. WHAT A SIGHT!!! After the fourth place we tried, we finally found someone to fix the display and the computers. In the same building was a warehouse with American goodies. Since we didn't have room on the scooter to buy much, the owner offered to bring it to our boat. We now have enough snacks to last through Portugal!!! That night the Dinghy Club(Marina) had a BBQ for the boats that had arrived. It was good and we had fun comparing our stories on the high seas. (I haven't cooked dinner since I cooked up that storm!!) The 19th brought a little excitement when the boat tied to us started to pull us off our anchor. The winds were at about 20 knots and the OTHER CAPTAIN decided to pull anchor. The other boat was in the process of leaving which made it easier for us.... getting back was a little more difficult. We had a lot of help on the boat and on shore and we got settled back again. Right after that, Dovekie came in next to us and there was another "Goat Rodeo". Everything settled down and the entertainment for the day was over, so everyone went back to their boats to get back to work!!! That night everyone enjoyed the FREE Dark and Stormies (Gosling's Rum and Ginger Beer).... We deserved them.... Now to a good nights sleep! Well almost....the wind never dropped and we are on the leeward side of the bay with just enough room for a good chop to build before crashing into our small company of boats...ALL NIGHT! With a sea wall behind us and a chop in front we not only had the wave but the rebound also. The noise was actually worse than being in the open ocean. The bouncing and rebounding made for an unusual night in paradise. We even woke to cloudy skies and a threat of rain. The weather continues to be strange.....I guess it's really normal! As of today the 20th, we have one computer and the Auto Helm working sometimes. Tomorrow, someone will be here (I hope) to look at the Auto Helm and we pray that it is something easy and can be done in two days!! Log Entry: May 23 Well, it is official, we have the trophy for Class A 3rd place! We also crossed the starting line in third place on our way to the Azores. Since we are on our way it means we have most of our "things" fixed. We are down to one computer, although my brother Kenny, who joined us for the rest of the voyage, did bring his computer also.(back to 2 computers). Our time in Bermuda was focused on getting everything shipshape and ready for the next 2000 miles to the Azores. We expect this portion of our journey to take 2 weeks or less with no problems. We did some work to keep water out of the boat and we will sail with a true respect for the ocean and the weather. We will not be as vulnerable as we were on our first leg. Follow along to see how we fare. The weather in Bermuda was more negative than positive. We had a few days of nice clear bright weather, but the balance was cloudy, overcast, damp and windy. The wind caused us several problems on the dock as we had various boats tied to us. The extra tension on our anchor caused it to loosen twice. What happens then is what I call a "goat rodeo". We all run around pulling, pushing, throwing and yelling to try and stop these boats from banging into one another and the sea wall. We must have been successful because when all is over there was no damage, but there was some excitement. I had to reset my anchor a few times so I also got additional experience with "Med" mooring...(the way they typically moor to a seawall in Europe). Everybody drops an anchor 150 ft. or more away from the wall and backs to the wall. The anchor holds you away from the wall. Your stern lines hold the stern reasonably stable and you get on and off your boat on a plank. It is best to find the widest plank available. Ours was 10 inches or so. There are no pilings so bumpers separate you from the boat next to you. Under general circumstances you develop a good relationship with boats on either side of you as each of you is dependent on the other. It is certainly different than we are used to in the US, but it does make better use of space as well as insuring that you meet the people around you. Back to our journey. As noon today approached I think we were all getting butterflies for the start to another leg of our journey. We pulled away from the dock first and anchored in the far side of the harbor to do our final stowing, cleaning and making everything as water tight as possible. With about 15 minutes to the start we pulled anchor, raised the main and unfurled the staysail. Kenny made us look good for the start. As we started, we unfurled the genoa and started to get ready to set the spinnaker once we cleared the harbor. Now we are sailing Northeast at 6-7 kts, in 4-6 ft seas with a 20 kt breeze from a little North of West. We're on our way! Log Entry: May 25 A new to start our trip! It was really black! The weather was misty and rainy and no moon. You couldn't even see a horizon! It was time once again to build our faith....faith that a sea creature (whale) wasn't sleeping in front of us....faith that some man made object like a container wasn't in our path and faith that other debris wasn't out there to get us. Even during the day it is near impossible to see these things but at night you just go and have faith! The light that did exist was from iridescence in the water. Our bow wave looked like an undulating milky way. Kelli and Chris, our crew who live in the forward V birth were amazed to see the iridescence in the water passing over the hatch directly above their heads. It was beautiful! Yes, we were getting water over the deck once in a while. We sailed most of the first day and started the engine the first night. We had rain but no wind! For a while the next day we were able to sail once again but only for a while. We chose to go North of most of the boats. The Southern boats had wind. We were using our precious fuel and we had just started the passage. We carry about 4 days worth of fuel and we used 1 days worth in the first 48 hrs. We are also hand steering as the Autopilot went on vacation. I hope we can find somebody in the Azores to help us with it. Hand steering in nice conditions is bad but in bad conditions...well... We have had the sails up and down several times as the wind starts for a little while and then drops to zero again. We can't motor in the ocean with the sails up and no wind because the sails bang themselves to destruction. About an hour ago we saw the sun for the first time this trip. It can certainly change your outlook! We also have 10-15 kts of wind and we are sailing! The seas are about 4 ft and very comfortable. We are all, except Faith, (she never lost them) trying to find our sea legs. We are fishing again but still no luck! The direction of the wind is a little off but it does look like it will be a beautiful day in the middle of the Atlantic! s/v Boundless Log Entry: May 26 What a gorgeous day! We sailed from early this morning, all day! We may need the engine tonight though as the winds have again dropped to near zero. Last night the stars were bright and I saw 3 shooting stars!! Yesterday evening we saw a large pod of dolphins. They are really fun! We still haven't caught a fish but it's not because we haven't tried. It looks like we will be flirting with a Low weather system in the next few days so we are working to put Boundless in a relatively good position to cross the front on Tuesday or Wednesday. The food continues to be great and morale is good even though we are hand steering. Ugh! More tomorrow! 1400 NM to go!! Log Entry: May 27 It is now 11:30PM. I am up getting ready for my watch. It is from 12:00 to 3:00AM, hand steering. I also have the 12 to 3 watch in the afternoon. There has been NO WIND today! By tomorrow noon we will have run the engine about 75 hrs during the first 5 days of this portion of our journey. The weather outlook says that we should have several days of favorable winds for sailing. I hope so as I am now managing my fuel very closely. The problem here is a huge mid Atlantic High. We should start working our way out tomorrow. The boats that sailed South have done better....more wind longer. There are one or two boats that still do not have one hour of engine time! They probably sail well in light air. We wallow in the swells. We need 8+kts of wind to move. We haven't seen that in a while. This makes the passage comfortable but in a motorboat! We have had several problems that we have worked on along the way. We had a couple of seams start to part on the mainsail. This was a result of the high winds approaching Bermuda. We patched them today. The forward head does not like a Port Tack.....winds coming from the Port side. It overflows so we had to shut it down and all use the Aft head. There is a speaker about half way up the mast that was getting loose. In the calm sea it was safe to send Chris up the mast and fix the problem. We also had one of the winches on the mast fall to the deck as we were launching the Spinnaker the other day. The end plate had worked its way loose. We were very lucky in that nothing went overboard! We gathered the pieces and put it back together. Needless to say we checked ALL the other winches! We have spent a lot of time trying to coax the autopilot into life. Actually we are using it for navigation information, it just won't steer the boat. I think the rudder sensing device has gone bad. We hope to get this fixed in the Azores. Because we are in the middle of this High the weather has been very nice after the first few days of rain and mist. The sunsets...we saw a "green flash"....have been great! A "green flash" is seen in perfect conditions just as the sun sets in the tropics. We are a little North but everything was perfect! The sun turned a bright emerald green just as it dipped below the horizon. Today the sea was ablaze as the setting sun reflected off of the mercury-like coating on the sea because of the extreme calm conditions. We haven't caught a fish yet but keep trying. We saw a Sperm Whale, a pod of Pilot Whales and two turtles today. It is much easier to see the various sea creatures in calm seas. We talk a few times a day to the other rally participants via SSB Radio. We all complain about the lack of wind but that's the weather! You never know! It will be a long trip to Horta as a result of the weather but we are having a good trip and the sea is showing us a pretty side of her that we seldom notice. 33 58.5N, 55 16.3W 1316NM to go! See you in the Azores! Log Entry: May 29 How quickly life changes! One minute we are sailing along about 4 knots in calm and languid seas and the next minute the winds pick up to 25 knots. It was two minutes before the watch change at 9 PM and everyone was on deck. We reefed all three sails and pounded into the very confused seas. All the quiet and peaceful moments on the sea was quickly forgotten as we made our way through the night. We were aware this would happen from the weather God, HERB**. We are all thankful for the wind since many of us are getting low on fuel especially the smaller boats; we would just rather have calmer seas!!! Beggars can't be choosers!!!!! Since your body and your mind needs to adjust to the different seas, no-one had an appetite. (almost no-one) However, all the crew bravely continued their duties which includes hand steering!!! Rudy, Ken, Chris and Kelli have been doing a magnificent job. Since no-one enjoys going down below, I man the SSB for the weather (a couple of times a day) and roll call for the ARC Europe, cook, wash dishes and act like a Girl Friday. Yesterday, on the SSB there was a Quiz run by the ARC Europe. We came in second!! It was run by an Englishman, so he tried to be fair and gave us American questions. No fish report! 1120 NM to go!! N36.04 W52.07 **Herb gives us personal weather forecast on the SSB between 3:30 to about 7:00 each and every night... and it is free... he does accept donations which he richly deserves!!! Log Entry: May 30 The wind calmed down during the night and it became easier to cook and sleep. We all had chicken soup for dinner so our stomachs could not be burdened with digesting too much. The next morning the sun was shining and the crew was hungry again!!! We haven't had to put our engines on which made us very happy. We also put on some miles by going about 7-8 knots all day. However, tonight Herb felt that a low was developing and suggested we go more South again (we are going in a unique pattern across the Atlantic....the scenic route!!!) We would rather go a little out of our way than to knowingly go into a storm. It is not a pleasurable event.... 36-49N 48-37W 954 NM to go plus the detour. No fish caught. Log Entry: May 31 We have finally crossed the 1/2 way point to the Azores. We haven't motored for the last few days so our meager supply of fuel looks like it will be adequate for us to reach the Azores. Life on board has been good. The weather has been excellent! Smooth seas, bright and clear with enough wind to sail. We had to tighten up the sails and point as high as possible into a SSE breeze yesterday and today the wind was 10 kts or less so we eased the sails out. We were probably averaging about 5 kts due to our direction. We have moved a little South but not a lot. We'll speak to Herb again tonight to get our directions and outlook for the next several days. Life on board has now become routine. With a little less than a week to go we still need to sail as efficiently as possible and monitor all on board systems to get us to the Azores. We need to manage/make electricity, manage/make water, check the boat constantly for leaks and wear that may cause problems, maintain the Engine and Generator and also manage food/drink stores for the balance of our voyage. These are the things which keep a good part of our time occupied. We also look forward to and enjoy e-mails....our link to the real world. We are reading a bit and with steering for 3 hrs/12 and being on call for another 3 hrs/12, there isn't a lot of time left. Life is good! We were lucky with our choice of Chris and Kelli for our crew. They have both helped with decisions and choices and have helped us with everything onboard. They have been a definite add to our journey on a social/friend basis as well as helping us to better balance the work and assignments. Kenny, my brother who joined us in Bermuda, continues to be as helpful as always. His experience base of sailing and boats helps me significantly to keep the boat safe and injury free. The entire crew works well together! What else is there? We are at 36 41.1N, 46 23.9W with 852 NM to go. Log Entry: June 1 We are still sailing southeast trying to get below 35N so that we will get less wind in a favorable direction from a Low forecast for tomorrow. This actually slows us down because we should be going just slightly North of East for the Azores. We are going for comfort rather than speed. We may even stop and take a swim later today. Is this really a race? We are sailing at about 5-6kts with winds around 10kts. The seas are still calm and at night as well as during the day, they sparkle as though the heavens have sprinkled them with diamonds. There is less noise and movement here in the middle of the Atlantic than in many of the anchorages we have experienced in the last two years. Sailing is more like the Chesapeake or Long Island Sound than the middle of the Atlantic. It has been this way for about three to four days. With the low getting close, this may change in the near future. The weather continues to be great though! Another clear blue sky for the start of the day. The moon last night was about 2/3rds full. We should see a full moon before we reach the Azores. The moon was very bright and was with us until about 2:30 PM. Then the dark was back! We have seen a couple of ships but no other sailboats. We know there are a bunch around us but no sightings. We still haven't caught a fish but we do keep trying. Our daily communications and roll call with the other boats in our group is something we all look forward to. It is neat to develop these radio relationships. Many things are discussed, like fish caught (we don't talk about that), things seen, problems and encouragement, etc. The largest topic of discussion though continues to be the weather. Various boats get weather from various places. We try to bring all of this together at least once a day. Then each boat can make its own routing decision. 35-51N 44-28W 774 NM to go. Log Entry: June 2 This is the North Atlantic I expected! Last night the winds picked up to 15 to 20 knots and have held there since. The weather is overcast with light rain and seas 6 to 8 ft. Boundless is making 7 to 8 kts for the Azores...almost! We are still moving East rather than NE because of the weather between here and there. We are waiting for Herb with his recommendation regarding our push to the Azores. We have about 600 nautical miles to go. Today we all needed our rest after a night of BUMPY SEAS. We all found our own way to rest and there was hardly any talking among ourselves. The sounds that were heard were the waves slapping against the boat and the different sounds the boat and its contents make with the rocking and swaying of the boat. After awhile, you do not even hear these noises. The only sounds that wake you are the noises your brain doesn't recognize... then you wake with a start!! We listened to Herb and it seems we may finally be able to go North East by Tuesday!! We will probably experience some strong winds and possibly occasional gusts up to 30 knots tonight through Monday, but the gale force winds will hopefully stay north of us! We will let you know tomorrow.... Time is another interesting consideration. We continue to move East so the day starts and ends a little earlier every day. This hasn't effected our watch schedules yet but probably will in a few days. Bermuda is in the same time zone as the Caribbean Islands, however, they do use Daylight Savings Time, so they are 1 hour ahead of the Caribbean. The EDT for the US is now the same as the Caribbean. We are using Bermuda time as our base. We have family on both coasts of the US so we have that to consider also. In addition we use UTC/Zulu/GMT as a constant during our voyage with inter fleet communications and schedules. So, time comes in may flavors and it is always interesting to convert local time to US EDT/PDT and UTC. It does get confusing!! One of the best communication devices we have on board is our Iridium phone... it works!! I have called my family in the middle of the Atlantic with success which makes me feel closer to them!!! 34:58 N 38:23 W 515 NM Log Entry: June 3 A close encounter It is seldom we see anything out here even though there are 30 boats in our group alone. There are probably over fifty boats between Bermuda and the Azores. Today we passed within 100 ft of a vessel that left Tortola bound for the Azores. We all took pictures and will exchange them at Horta. We also saw a large container ship going in the other direction. It was a busy day. It has been overcast all day but with winds out of the Southwest about 10-15, and seas of 6 to 8ft; therefore, another good day. We are still traveling East with about 460 NM to go. About half of that distance is to the North. Maybe tomorrow we'll be able to make the turn. We need to see what this next Low is going to do before we make the decision. All is well on Boundless! 34:57N 37:15W 460 NM to go Log Entry: June 4 Even our weatherman has his bad days....we were supposed to have a good day today with tomorrow a heavy weather day and then a couple of days to the Azores. Well, the Low front hit this morning when it was supposed to be light. It was all hands on deck to reduce sails quickly. So, now we have been sitting in 20-25 kts of wind with 8-10 ft seas very confused, overcast with rain etc. We made our turn for the Azores, but with the sea state we aren't making a lot of headway. I hope we'll be in the Azores by Thursday, early. The whole boat looks like the inside of a closet with foul weather gear, boots, hats, etc. hanging and piled all over the place. We will have some cleaning to do! Now it is just getting through this low and getting Boundless to make the Azores quickly. Faith is making soup with rice and bread for dinner tonight. We are pretty much out of our fresh stores so it on to frozen and canned goods plus whatever surprises Faith puts together. I have no clue how she manages to cook in an environment that is constantly moving in different directions. Kenny said that it is like being inside a washing machine. Oh well, 330 miles to go! The crew from Boundless! 35-26 N 34-04 W Log Entry: June 5 The Atlantic has bestowed another beautiful day on the crew of the Boundless. We are all thankful! We haven't seen the sun or the moon for a few days. In addition we had a night to remember. The winds from a low north of us gusted up to 30. That wasn't too bad, however the sea state which was 8-10ft came from all directions it seemed, and the squalls with heavy rain and lightning with shifting winds was certainly a challenge for us all. It is nights like this that we all think about why we spent so much time finding a good, strong, sound boat and maintained it well. The boat is what takes care of you. We couldn't see a thing outside of the cockpit so we reduced sails significantly and held on. We rolled, pitched, yawed, bounced and pounded. Because of the experience and confidence in our equipment I don't think we were afraid; just frustrated that there really wasn't much we could do to change the situation. We made a decision to turn Northeast for the Azores yesterday. The weather looked manageable and Herb warned of potentially high winds if we got too far North too early. We got exactly what we expected. The bad news is that there was no way we could maintain speed and direction towards our goal when everything hit us at the same time. The boats North of us had winds up to 50kts. and a couple of boats damaged their sails. That is why we sailed 240 miles out of our way. Last night also pushed our arrival in Horta back a day. We will probably arrive on Thursday. We have 230 miles to go, but again the winds are not cooperating and we are tacking down wind to get up to the Azores. We are really looking forward to setting our feet on something that stays still for more than an instant. We have people lined up to work on the things that are broken and we look forward to painting our logo/name on the seawall with the many thousands of others that have come through the Azores. A cold beer would be nice also! 36-18 N 32-27 W 225 NM to go. Log Entry: June 6 We're almost there! Yesterday we had a good run. We were a bit off target but the winds gave us a break and by nightfall we were heading on a course to Horta. The moon was incredible. It was almost like the middle of the day. The seas were a bit confused. They were well aft of our beam and so the Boundless rolled and rolled! Everything was moving! More sounds than we ever heard before. We were all trying to find a place that was quiet to sleep. I went up to the cockpit. Faith went to the main salon. It was quite an experience! Today we had another great day. The winds were still aft, but the seas were a little more forgiving and the rolling was more manageable. Would you believe we even caught a fish and it was a marlin of all things! It really is a beautiful fish, strong and majestic looking with the long bill and large long fin along its back. Would you believe we let it go! All the fun is catching it anyway, right? It looks like we will get to Horta in the middle of the night, actually it will be closer to morning. We can't wait! Faith is fighting with her last meal before a welcomed break and the rest of us are looking forward to a real night s sleep. 52 miles to go and we're doing 7kts or so. Log Entry: June 8 After another night of thrashing about in the open sea, we finally saw land. We all came on deck and watched a sight we have not seen in 15 days; lights of a city!!! We arrived across the finish line on June 7th 0600 UTC time which is about 2:00 am EST!! After we docked by the Customs office, we opened a bottle of champagne and then had breakfast. After going to Customs and Immigration, we moved our boat to raft up to the 5th boat out from the wall. We have to walk across five other boats to get to the dock. We (Rudy, Ken and Faith) took down the Jib and the main sail to get some minor repairs done and we also tried to line up someone to look at our Auto Helm. He will be coming Monday and we hope he is able to fix it!! We went to the Arc's happy hour and sat around swapping High Seas stories. Then we went to eat at a restaurant in which you order the meat you want and then they give you a hot stone and you cook it yourself.( I still had to cook!!) It was a great time and no one complain to the chef!! When we came back to the boat we found some small things to keep us busy and then we went to sleep for about 12 hours. Today after some pancakes and bacon, we are all doing our chores. We will be touring the islands (4-5) starting Monday and leaving the Azores June 23rd. The logs will not come as often until then. Log Entry: June 16 After we got in touch with some services to check out our Auto Helm, sails and to set up our electric system for Europe, we toured the island of Faial (the Blue Island) with our rented jeep. I was able to find a sunny day and painted our logo on the wall of Horta. (Tradition has it that if you do not paint your sailboat on the wall, you will have bad luck! We were also told we HAD TO HAVE A DRINK AT PETER'S CAFE SPORT OR ELSE. We had no problem with that!!!) That was the last day we saw the sun until we left the island for Graciosa (the White Island). On June 11th, we took a ferry to the island of Pico which has the highest point of all the nine islands and Portugal of 7,356 feet. (The tours that I will be discussing have been arranged by the ARC organization for a small charge per person) Here we had a tour and visited a cheese factory, wine factory and a whaling museum. We then stopped in Madalena for a traditional Azorian meal. We were stuffed, but we went out to dinner later anyway. (I have not cooked a meal since we made landfall!!) On June 12th, we didn't go on the tour of Faial since we had already had our own tour. We did last minute errands and went to our daily HAPPY HOUR for our briefing and out to dinner in a country house in the middle of the island. At the end of the evening, people were dancing and Cathy from Gitana and I did the Charleston!!! On June 13th, we sailed from Faial to Graciosa which is about 50 miles. We were first to the harbor, but Rudy didn't tell anybody else that we were racing. The day started as a cold front went through that caused a slight delay in our leaving. At 8:00am we pushed away from our raft of 5 boats to the sea wall. It was a significant effort to and from Boundless. With everything sea ready again, we were off in the rain and mist. It wasn't long before the front passed and we had a wonderful sail. It was one of the best days we have had. We had 15 kts on our beam all the way and 6-9kts of boat speed in a relatively dry/flat environment. We did our customs thing, tried out the local bakery and got ready for dinner. A bus picked us up at the dock and took us to a small restaurant in Santa Cruz. The following morning, we had a tour around the island. Some of the sights we saw included the volcanic crater on the island's interior and saw the hidden crater lake (over 182 steps, but who's counting), hot baths at Guadeloupe, beautiful volcanic rock formations and a bakery. Also, we saw a very huge rock formation that looked like a huge whale! On the 15th, we departed for the island of Sao Jorge and again we were first to the harbor and again we didn't tell anyone we were racing!!! The day was beautiful with almost no wind so it was mostly a motor sail but it was nice to have the weather. That afternoon we toured the island and stopped along the way for picture taking and enjoy the pastries and coffee of the island. On our way to our boats after dinner, we heard the singing of the birds. In fact, all night we heard them. It was very unusual and pleasant all at the same time. The 16th found us on the boat going 137 NM to Sao Miguel. We will arrive early tomorrow morning and take another tour. We left the harbor with the wind on our nose with 15 to 20 kts across the deck. We were motoring again. It wasn't long though before we lost the influence of the islands and the wind moved to our beam. We were in for another great day of sailing. We did 8-9kts almost all day! We saw a few dolphins but not much else. It is really wonderful when everything works! Footnote: Our Auto Helm now works. It seems when we were hit by the green water on our trip to Bermuda, water got into the remote plug that was in the cockpit. When that was disconnected, the Auto Helm came to life. Thank goodness it was that simple!! Log Entry: June 20 On June 16th, we arrived at 5 am. Like the other two times, we came in first ahead of boats who left three hours before us. Again no one knew we were racing!!! On the 23rd, it will be the true test and race!!! However, we did win another prize! We won a prize for going the most miles in 24 hours. We did 179NM in 24hrs. It was a bottle of Coconut Rum!!! I, as Captain in name only, had to visit FIVE OFFICIALS to get processed to enter this island of San Miguel, in the Azores. Punta Delgada is the largest city and since they had many problems in the past with drugs, they have a very thorough process of entering into the country. All were friendly so it wasn't toooo bad!! Then we walked around the town and had lunch. That afternoon we took a short tour to see the twin lakes. One was blue and the other green with a semitropical plantation surrounding it. On the 17th, we took a tour from 9:00 am to 6 PM. We actually started at 10:00 am though. We visited towns on the north and south coasts with spectacular views, sulfur pools, a liquor store with samples, a tea factory with samples and watched as our lunch was dug out of the ground! Then we followed our guide to a beautiful hotel for a most delicious and interesting lunch. We had about five kinds of meats, two kinds of potatoes, vegetables and then pineapple and the most delicious chocolate cake I have tasted! (no dinner for me tonight!!) Then we walked around the gardens that were on the grounds. It had been the American Embassy and they had a volcanic heated outside pool which was brown in color from the iron. The gardens were fantastic with pools with fish, and every type of plant life from all the islands including yams with their elephant ear leaves! On the 18th and 19th, we walked around Ponta Delgada which has more people here than all of the other islands combined. Today Kelli and Chris, two of our crew, left to go home. Chris has a new job and we wish him well. They were good crew and helped us during our passage. The 20th found all three of us cleaning, fixing and getting things for the boat. Many of the ladies and a few gents, went to get their hair cut, including me! At night we had a gathering at a harbor side restaurant for pizza, wings and all sorts of goodies. Several boats will be leaving between now and the 23rd. Only about 8 boats will be going to Lagos, Portugal on June 23rd. So far the weather looks good for a slow, high pressure system, passage. Log Entry: June 24 On June 21st-22nd, we did our errands and I had a chance to SHOP. I didn't hurt our budget in the slightest because there is no more room on the boat to store anything. However, I did manage to buy more food and put that away. We found a couple of great restaurants for some wonderful meals. We also went to the movies (Subtitles are in Portuguese) The movies were $350 escudos. ($200 escudos =$1.00) My heart sinks when they tell us that the bill for dinner for three of us costs $10,000 escudos!!! Then I realize that it is only $50 and we had a bottle of wine or two with dinner, coffee and dessert. I do not feel bad at all!!! June 23rd got here awfully quickly. All of a sudden it's time to go again! We really enjoyed the Azores. They are a very special group of islands! We both hope we will be able to return for another stay. Now it's time to get Boundless ready for another passage. We have to pack things away and dog (tighten) all the ports and hatches. Last minute provisioning, changing the oil and zincs and I think we are ready! In the morning we disconnect all the umbilicals (water and power, stow the dinghy, do one last check and push off. It is an hour and a half to the start and everybody knows we are racing today. It will be another downwind start. It is only Faith, Kenny and I for this last leg of about 1000 miles. We decide to start in full color. We will cross the line with our spinnaker flying. Kenny had the helm and he did a great job of getting us to the line in about third place and it wasn't long before every other boat was also scrambling to get their spinnakers set because we were pulling away (all except Persistence). They were keeping up with us with just their jib and main. When they finally did put up their spinnaker, they pulled ahead. The race is on. We flew the spinnaker for a few hours and decided to try wing and wing. We set up the boat and flew downwind with the jib on one side of the mast and the main on the other. It is easy to maintain a good course heading with a working autopilot! Just after dark we started the engine and it is still running! There are only 6 boats going to Portugal. The others have left early or they are going to the UK. We will all stay in touch by SSB radio throughout our voyage. Faith will be controlling the daily position/weather briefings and sending position info to World Cruising to be posted on their web page, www.worldcruising.net Follow along and see how we do! We are now getting ready for our second night out. We have passed the other boats and hope to get to Lagos, Portugal in 6-7 days. The first night is always the worst. Trying to get used to sleeping and living in a moving environment. It will be dark again because of the new moon. It is cloudy so we might not see many stars but last night they were extraordinary! Faith is back on track with great meals for us all as well as her new duties for the fleet. Log Entry: June 25 We had a good day yesterday! The weather was overcast and there wasn't much wind, so we motor sailed most of the day which was OK. At the start of the night, we had a front pass with a wind shift and an increase to 20 kts. The wind didn't hold long unfortunately because we need the wind to stay ahead of the pack! Stress management for married sailors is don't!! Have you ever tried setting three sails in 15 kts of wind in a cramped cockpit with lines, cushions and junk all over the place in the middle of a very dark humid night? Faith and I continue to work together (not always quietly) to try and manage. Boundless and care for each other as well. We continue to learn what togetherness, friendship and love is really all about. We may even survive! After the front passed, we had a couple of squalls and a couple of wind shifts...sails set, sails furled, sails trimmed, sails slacked. We can't wait to sail in the trade winds again! We passed a merchant vessel this morning looking for hydraulic oil. His hydraulic systems were out. That probably means he doesn't have steering as well as many control systems on board. Sailing is really fun...... I saw a vertical rainbow this morning! It went from the sea to a cloud overhead. All of a sudden it passed through the cloud and went straight to the heavens! Now I know how Jack felt! We have been motoring for almost two straight days now, with a few breaks for squalls and wind shifts. The seas have remained relatively flat with some large rollers, but it has been comfortable so far. We are already looking forward to our arrival in Portugal. We are trying to guess when we will arrive and have a real shower again. Log Entry: June 26 We actually sailed for a few hours on Monday. It was a treat! The winds did remain fickle though right through the day. Towards nightfall, we were again overtaken by a large squall. There was enough wind to sail so it wasn't all bad but it certainly did rain. It passed just before dark. The night started with the blinding light of silver from the moon and more stars than anybody could count. The clarity was amazing! This led to another light show. There were brilliant flashes that lit up our world and crashes like cannons. The lightning and some rain was with us for over four hours. By the time it ended, far in front of us the flashes still lit up the skies but there wasn't a whisper of sound. Then all was clear again! A beautiful morning with clear skies and only a light breeze from the West. Oh well, another day of motoring. The seas are still relatively flat but we are rolling a bit because of the direction. Not bad! Would you believe we still haven't caught a fish except for the marlin. We want a tuna! We have tried every lure in the book and today Kenny put a couple on together because nothing else seems to work. Actually I don't feel too bad because there weren't many fish caught by the whole group. One boat caught a large tuna and shared it with a passing freighter. Another caught a smaller tuna and made sushi which they shared with another boat that happened to be close by. It seems that all of our friends in the Caribbean are also catching fish (Feisty, Endless Summer, and many others). We still have a few miles to go so maybe the big one is still waiting. We have passed the halfway point with using about half of our fuel. We still need some wind to get to Portugal (not too much though). Log Entry: June 27 Still no fish!! Yes Shawn we tried 6:00am (even 5:00am). Yes, Kenny, we tried the teasers! Yes, Bob, we checked the connectors! Any more ideas? Today is another bright blue, clear day. As dawn broke you could see clouds on the horizon. As the sun oozed from under the sea, it started a lava flow in fiery glory from all of the clouds surrounding it. Sunrise is a special time on the water! For any of you that may be charting our progress, you may be wondering why we are still going East when Cape St. Vincent is Southeast and Lagos is East of the Cape. There is a mountain range between here and there. It starts on the ocean floor and rises to within 30ft or so of the surface. These mountains rival the Rockies and some have names like Gettysburg, Ormonde, Hipondelle, Josephine Seamounts or the Gorringe Ridge. With the mountains several thousand feet high and almost breaking the surface the area is noted for very rough and confused seas with strong and varying currents. This is much like the winds on the tops of mountains (unpredictable and dangerous). It is not a place we want to get near. We have now made our turn to the Southeast and will give the mountain range plenty of room. We sailed for over 12 hrs yesterday. About 1:30am we started the motor again as the winds were light and from our stern. We could always tack downwind or wait for more favorable conditions but that would leave us exposed in the North Atlantic longer and we want to be first into Lagos! So, for us the right solution is to run the engine. We expect to arrive in Lagos on Friday. YES!!!! The weather forecast is for SW winds of about 15kts later today and N or NW 10 to 15 tomorrow. There is a possibility of 25kts with gusts from the North on Friday. We hope to be around Cape St. Vincent ahead of the wind increase. Running the engine can also cause problems. We spent a few hours in oil and dirt yesterday when our good old Westerbeke just stopped. With a diesel engine the cause is almost always a fuel problem. It seems my aft fuel tank has a bunch of goo and water at the bottom that got sucked into my pre-filter. With the filter replaced and the bowl cleaned, it still wouldn't start. I had to refill the fuel line and bleed fuel to the injectors to get all the air out of the system. Not fun, but there was no danger around Boundless and we are still a day or so ahead of the pack, so we did have time to get it fixed. I will clean the fuel tank when we get to Lagos. If we couldn't get it running again, we might have had to think about sailing all the way to Lagos....ooohhh noooo! Last night we saw the first ships since we left the Azores. All three were on Faith's watch. With just the three of us, she does one night watch day so that Kenny and I can each get six straight hours of sleep. These three ships were sighted just after the crescent moon dipped into the ocean. Now we are getting near the prime shipping lanes into the Mediterranean. We should see many more ships tonight and tomorrow and we will need to be very careful. These ships take miles to slow or turn. There is no way for them to avoid a small sailing vessel like ours if we put it into harm s way. We will all be very alert until we get around Cape St. Vincent. We will need to be very cautious as we continue our journey through Gibraltar and into the Mediterranean. The traffic here should be much more significant then NYC! We'll let you know. Log Entry: June 28 This is our last day in passage!! We should arrive at the dock in Lagos, Portugal after midnight tonight. When I get there I am going to report a theft. The trawlers from Russia and Japan must have stolen all the fish! Needless to say, my brother hasn't caught a thing this whole trip! We saw a couple of Dolphins today. We haven't seen a single creature since the first day away from the Azores. It is a little strange. We saw dolphins, turtles, flying fish, birds etc. almost everyday of the first two legs. Maybe the trawlers took everything. We are finally sailing again! The winds are 10+kts on our beam with light seas with not even any rollers. It is a great way to finish a great trip. We are about a full day ahead of our competition. We have a few more engine hours than some and we will need to give them all time as the handicaps are calculated, but we will be first to Portugal and they all knew we were racing!!!!! This leg has been easy on Boundless and easy on us. Faith has had to stand a watch, but cooking for three is a bit easier and life onboard is also easier with three. My brother Ken has always been next to me to help and offer suggestions regarding our next move or a better way to do something (although his way wasn't always better). His sailing experience and knowledge of boats and the water made things easier for me. My cousin Dick did the same on the leg to Bermuda. The flat seas have made all chores easier and nobody has felt the effects of mal de mer. The autopilot was the biggest add to this leg. It makes the passage a joy rather than work, although some would rather hand steer anyway! I guess there are people that do like to sail! We have only seen a few large ships in the shipping channels. It looks like the problem was overstated a bit but we must always be careful out here alone. It should also get more crowded as we approach and clear Gibraltar whenever we decide to head into the Mediterranean. My boss at IBM, Bryan, gave me a special bottle of champagne and told me not to drink it until we reach Europe. That is exactly what we will do when the boat is docked and we can relax. Thanks for following along on our journey to Europe and we will have some champagne and toast you all tonight. Tomorrow I will tell you about our last ten to twelve hours of the passage and Faith and I will do some reflections of our passage which I think is a significant achievement. Then you can look forward to following us through the Mediterranean as we get up close and personal with Europe. We are really looking forward to Portugal! Log Entry: June 29 WE MADE IT AT 1:06AM UTC time, and we were first by probably 24 hours!! More to follow..... Log Entry: July 2 Sorry we didn't write sooner, but with welcoming each boat as they came in, we had too little sleep and tooooo much champagne!! The last hours of our trip were not nearly as peaceful or quiet as the first five days! The shipping lanes in close to shore were busy! The large ships were lined up in both directions and moved at 20 to 30 kts. We had to alter course a couple of times to avoid those ships! The good news was that we hit the busiest areas in daylight. Some of the later boats had to deal with the traffic in the dark. This is always more difficult and one boat had to deal with fog and about one mile visibility or about three minutes to react if you do see a ship. He did not have radar and was navigating with a sextant (no GPS or plotters)! Most had concerns and stories, but it was just another challenge for all of these world travelers. After we cleared the shipping lanes and approached the coast of Portugal, the winds started to build. It was dark now and the winds had reached 20 kts and above with gusts. The seas were also starting to build, but were still relatively calm. We had almost no water on deck during this whole passage, except for the rain showers and squalls. We were still under full sail as we rounded Cape St. Vincent towards the south coast of Portugal. The wind continued to build. We weren't very familiar with the area and we knew we were going to enter a strange harbor in the dark in a couple of hours, so as the wind topped 25, we started to reduce sail. The wind steadied at 30 or below and we were under power one more time. As we approached Lagos, there were many unusual lights on the water. They were stacks of fluorescent lights that blocked out everything around them. There were no other navigation lights, but some did look like they were moving. Nothing like another challenge of going into a strange harbor at 1:00 am! We still aren't sure what they were but think some lights were tied to buoys and others were on boats jacking for fish at night. We finished the leg to Portugal at 1:06 am. It took us five days, 13.1 hrs. The next boat finished over 15 hours later. All of the other boats finished during the next night and early morning. We were at the dock to welcome and congratulate each boat. We did have a good amount of champagne and not a lot of sleep! It was well worth the effort. Each of us had accomplished something significant and everybody was smiling, happy and glad to be in Portugal. Each of the other boats had longer and faster sails than we experienced during our last day because the 25-30kts of wind moved way off shore and held all the way to Lagos. Nothing is free! With the increased winds and boat speeds, came the waves. We were through the area before the waves had a chance to build. By the time the other boats experienced the increased winds, the seas were bumpy(rough) and confused. This made for an uncomfortable last day and night for the other boats, but they did have a fast sail. Even the 80 foot Gitana had problems with the high winds and seas for the last day of their crossing. The hugs, kisses, congratulations and stories for all lasted several hours. It really was a great experience. We are both so thankful for having the opportunity to travel the world! Log Entry: July 4 Atlantic Crossing Reflections: Part I Boundless is a great boat! She took us, we didn't take her, across a huge body of water with some formidable conditions. Highest winds were 45 kts and seas of 15, maybe 20 ft. I had expected an easier sail than we actually experienced because I was mesmerized by the averages during planning. The North Atlantic is changeable and always requires vigilance. The weather is always strange or unusual. It is never average. Faith has been a wonder. I don't know how she can stay below and cook wonderful meals for everybody in almost all conditions. She always did more than expected and tried to help with everything that was going on. She was always ready to go the extra inch to get things done. She always tried to make things easier for us all. If it weren t for her, we wouldn't be in Portugal today! Her support and enthusiasm for this venture made it all happen. My cousin Dick for the first leg and my brother Kenny for the last two legs were, each, everything I could have hoped for. They are both real sailors and came ready for a passage. We showed many of the other boats what we could do thanks to their help and guidance. They were also great company and huge support and help for all of the things that need to be done during any passage. Most of all they were friends! I would take them anywhere with me! The race was always on my mind. While I would have liked to say it didn't mean anything, the truth is that it did. Getting to Portugal first did mean something to me. I am still competitive and that will probably never change. In fact, it was fun to care about where the other boats were and how/what they were all doing. We all were involved in the race! I know several of the other boats felt the same way. Getting to Portugal first was great, but we did run the engine for 3 1/2 days and we did not have the highest engine hours. One boat had less than 20 hours of engine time. I think the best run we had was the 140 miles between St. Jorge and San Miguel in the Azores. We did beat everybody without using the engine. The winds were perfect for Boundless. We did place third to Bermuda and we did get an award for doing 180 miles in 24 hrs. Not bad overall! Traveling with a group was fun. We will have friends all over Europe for the next several years and we will probably travel with others from our group. The support that a group provides and sharing the experience with others made it worthwhile. I do not know if we will join a group for our trip back, but I would do it again for another trip to Europe. The Azores were a highlight of our crossing. I feel privileged to have spent some time in a group of islands in the middle of the Atlantic. I hope to return! The World Cruising organization did a good job of organizing and running the event. Everything wasn't always right and mistakes were made but the various hosts did very well to accommodate everybody and eliminate problems. Each one of us had ways to make things better and do things better but that is normal from a group of almost 100 people. The reality is they did well with a limited budget, a spread of several thousand miles, several countries and more islands, a group of 30 complex machines in a potentially dangerous environment and thousands more trying to follow and keep track of their loved ones and friends. Everybody will never be happy and groups of strong-minded captains and skippers are less likely to be satisfied than most. They earned their money and made the crossing easier, more safe and more fun. Future logs will probably be done every couple of weeks as we travel through Europe. Faith and I both hope you will continue to join us on our journey. We really appreciate your support and encouragement and look forward to future communications and visits. We almost always have room, so if you are ever near us, let's make it a point to get together. Stay in touch. Reflections: Part Two. Rudy is my HERO! He praises everyone around him, but he held the boat together by his thoroughness and thoughtfulness. Although, we sometimes gave him a hard time, we all love Rudy (not as much as ME)! Although he always wanted to be first, he never put us in danger or in an unsafe situation! He knows how to fix about everything on this boat and he is always ready to help out anyone who is in need! We had a great and safe voyage mainly due to Rudy. Many landlubbers ask me ?????WHY????? I never had a great answer and sometimes when I was cooking or trying to sleep in washing machine like seas, I asked the very same question! But then I looked at a beautiful sunrise or sunset, saw the millions of stars at night, watched the moon rise and set, felt the power and the majesty of the ocean or saw a pod of 50 dolphin jumping, surfing and gliding through the water. I KNEW! There is always good with the bad and we sure had our share on this voyage, but just like childbirth, you only remember the good! Now the problems and worries we had are either funny or lost in memory. I learned a great deal which is too much to put here, but the biggest thing I learned was not to worry! Things always seem to work out for the best! When we were stuck in different ports for boat repair, I was at first upset. Then I realized I was stuck in Paradise.... and that AIN'T BAD! If I couldn't find a food item, we ate something different! It forced me to try the local foods from the ports we visited. But most and best of all, I learned that not only the boating world, but our family and friends back home showed their stuff too. The notes we received on board were extremely appreciated. I saved my favorite messages, but they all were dear and close to my heart. The seas weren't as lonely when YOU were on board! Thank you one and all. I Love You. Log Entry: July 7 On July 1st (Rudy's birthday) we celebrated his birthday as well as Kathy's birthday (July 2nd) on Kathy s boat, Gitana, an 80 foot steel hull sailing vessel. All of the crew on the six boats that came to Portugal were there along with a few others. Ken and Rudy were late because they went to see Gibraltar by car. It was a five hour trip, each way! The next night the Arc gave us a dinner and we partied again!!! The next morning at 4 am, Ken left to go home to Rochester. Later that day, Mike and Kathy, on Gitana, and I sat by the pool and had champagne cocktails that Mike brought to us in honor of Kathy's birthday and Rudy brought us grilled sardines (a Portuguese specialty). The next couple of days we ran errands and reorganized and cleaned the boat. We have eaten out again every night and our favorite restaurants so far have been Dom Sebastian's and O Alberto's. Rudy rented a car and we went sightseeing and errand hopping all over the surrounding towns. We even found a mall with a movie theater. The movies have Portuguese subtitles! Here you buy a ticket not only for a particular movie, but also for a particular seat and then they escort you to that seat. On July 6th, we went to a beer fest in the neighboring town. We had a buffet and the difference here was that you are served ALL OF THE FOOD from the buffet, family style, and they keep bringing MORE!!! We waited till after 10 PM for the shows to start. First, they had a light show which was projected onto the fort above. They played Star Wars music and had images of the cast and space ships. It was very well done. Next came my favorite. It was a light show again, but this time in the water fountains. The laser light was projected on the spray as the fountains danced. They played an original Portuguese musical piece, Classical, American, German music and show tunes all beautifully choreographed using the lights and water. Last came the band from Cuba. It was a great night and much more than we expected!! I drove back to the boats. On July 7th, we visited the neighboring towns and went as far west as Sagres, just east of Cape St. Vincent. We had lunch at Luz and dinner with the crew from Persistence (Will and Diane). Tomorrow we leave on a train to visit Lisbon for four days. Log Entry: July 19 On Sunday July 8th, Rudy and I and Kathy and Mike from Gitana, took a train located behind the Marina to Lisboa (Lisbon). We then got on the Ferry in the train station to cross the river. As we crossed the river, we saw a duplicate of the Golden Gate Bridge.... color and all!!! In fact, the man who design the bridge in Cal,. also made this one. When we got to the hotel Albergaria Senhora Do Monte, the manager suggested the Cais Do Sodre for lunch. When we arrived, the table was waiting for us with shrimp, cheese, bread and water. It was located on the waterfront and it probably was the most delicious lunch we all experience and probably the most expensive!! We walked around and then went back to our hotel (which sat on a hillside with a fantastic view of all of Lisbon) for a nap. We walked around in the Chiado area and had a snack for dinner. We went to the bar at the top of the hotel for a drink and took in the beautiful view of the city. The next day, Rudy brought our computer to an IBM facility in Lisbon to get repaired before meeting us for breakfast in our hotel. We then took a cab and then a train to see the Palace of Sintra. This was used as a summer retreat for the Kings as early as the 8th century to the 15th century. It has a long history and many architectural styles. We walked around the town and found a small cafe in a back alley for lunch. It had the best goat cheese we have experienced. Even Rudy liked it!!! After that we took a bus to Cascais and had a drink in an antique train car transformed into a bar!! We explored the town (Kathy and I shopped while Rudy and Mike checked out the waterfront) and then took a train and a cab back to our hotel to get ready for dinner. We decided to experience Fado (Portuguese folk music) for our 34th wedding anniversary. Kathy and Mike surprised us not only with a bottle of Dom Perignon Champagne, but with the star Fado singer, singing "Happy Anniversary" in Portuguese as they brought out our dessert with candles on top. I thought it was "Happy Birthday" for the table next to us. Everyone at Clube De Fado clapped and Kathy and Mike made this our most memorable anniversary so far!!!!! On Tuesday we took the oldest electric Tram (#28) to the Castle of St. Jorge which overlooked the town and below our hotel rooms. We walked among some huge art sculptures put on display for the week long beer fest. They also had an observation chamber. It had a mirror on the top of the chamber which reflected onto an oval table which acted as a screen. We then took a tour of Lisbon as we walked around the table!!! (We could see our hotel!) Very cooool and interesting!!! Then we walked to the Cathedral Se. The pipe organs were massive. I would have loved to have heard them!! They were restoring a portion of the Cathedral and it gave you a glimpse of how the buildings were built in those days. They were also in the process of doing an archeological dig in the center courtyard. We could see down several layers of other ruins. We took a Metro to the Gulbenkian Museum and found that it has been closed for about a year because it's being restored. Then we decided to go back to Lisbon and go up the Elvador Santa Justa and see Lisbon from this point of view. (We could see our hotel!!) Later that evening, we took the funicular to a Port Tasting Club and then walked to dinner. Kathy found a great little restaurant with the best calamari and the most wicked chocolate cake I've ever tasted. A HUGE success!!! Our last day there, Kathy and I did some last minute shopping. We then took a cab, ferry, and train back to our boat. We were TOTALLY EXHAUSTED!!!! The next couple of days we helped Persistence, Gitana and Mahalo with lines as they started their journey to Gibraltar. We did errands and readied the boat for our departure. On Monday June 16th, we went to Lisbon again by car to pick up our fixed (?) computer. We had trouble finding the place and after asking several people, Rudy happened to ask some IBMers. The gentleman said it was too difficult to explain so he hopped into our car and directed us. His colleagues picked him up later. On Tuesday, we checked out. We then moved the boat to the customs dock because the walking bridge didn't open until 9 am and we wanted to leave at 6 am on Wednesday. We traveled all day on the 18th and stopped to anchor off the coast of Spain in a little harbor called Mazagon just south of Huelva. The freighters woke us up about 6 am so we had breakfast and took off. It took us about hours and we docked in Cadriz. Diane and Will were waiting for us to catch our lines. We will stay here a few days and wait for the winds to die down in the Gibraltar Strait. The Mediterranean Log Entry: July 25 When we came into the Marina at Puerto Santa Maria, near Cadriz, Will and Diane on Persistence were on the dock waiting to catch the lines. That night we all had a fish feast. There were so many types of shrimp, crab, clams, lobster, and just plain "regular" fish that it took us a long time to decide, so we tried almost everything!!!! Since most of the restaurants do not open until about 9 PM, (it doesn't get dark until 10 PM) we didn't get back to our boat until well after midnight. On the 20th, we borrowed Persistence's bicycles and took a ferry to the city of Cadiz. It was a great experience riding through the narrow streets on a bike. We went to another observation chamber and toured the whole city while standing still around a table!!! Since most places close for lunch between 2-4 hours we had lunch too!! We then rode to several plazas to get a feel of the city. When lunch time was over, we visited the St. Rosario's Church which was beautiful and built in the sixteen century. The catacombs were very interesting with many beautiful sculptures. The museum also had many interesting sculptures and other artifacts. One was a collection of old music books for the organ and choir which were almost as tall as Rudy. The next day we drove to Seville. We took a bus tour as soon as we got there. The bus circles the whole city and there are four stops in which you may get off and on again in a twenty-four hour period. We got off to see the Torre del Oro (tower of gold) which was a defensive lookout and now a naval museum. We then walked to Real Alcazar, Seville's Royal Palace. This was a magnificent, extensive, regal and grandeur building with landscaped gardens. It took us over an hour just to see all the rooms!!! They also had a display of the clothing they wore in that era. I am so happy I didn't live in those days!!!! Next we visited the Seville Cathedral and La Giralda. It is said to be the largest Cathedral in Europe. It began it's construction in 1401 and took over a century to complete. It also held the tomb of Columbus. The last building we visited, before getting on our tour bus back to our car, was the Casa de Pilatos. It was called this because it resembled Pontius Pilate's home in Jerusalem. Statues in the courtyard dated back to the 5th century BC and it is still one of the finest palaces of Seville. Sunday we all went to our first bullfight and saw six bulls. They all lost, but some did get in a few shots. It certainly seems barbaric to us, but the Spanish people were really into the event. We arrived late and they wouldn't let us walk down an aisle during a fight. We had to wait until the bull was killed before we could go to our seats! The people really appreciated a good, short fight with a clean kill. After the bull is dragged off the field, he is then butchered and the meat sold and eaten. On Tuesday the 24th, we left Puerto Santa Maria at 7 am and arrived in Gibraltar at 6 PM. The winds and current were with us so the 80 mile trip was fast. We motor sailed most of the way and only sailed for a couple of hours because the winds were light. As we entered the Straights of Gibraltar the low winds started to increase. By the time we were outside the harbor of Gibraltar the winds were 30 to 35kts, but it was behind us so it wasn't bad. The harbor was calm and docking was easy but different. In Gibraltar they don't have finger piers, but they do have floating docks at which they Med moor. Generally this means dropping an anchor to hold the bow out and tie the stern to a dock or wall. Here we backed into our space and fastened our stern lines. Then they gave us a small line on either side of the boat. This was attached to a large line that was anchored deep in the middle of the space between the docks. Needless to say, gloves were required to follow these lines from the dock to the larger lines and tension them at the bow so Boundless was secured and snuggled between boats on either side with plenty of fenders. We did need to clean the decks and ourselves after the process, but it did work well. Queensway Quay Marina is a nice quiet marina and D dock seems to have less surge than the rest of the marina. Log Entry: August 6 We rented a motorcycle and toured the 2.5 square miles of Gibraltar. We also made several trips to Spain... one day we went across the border 6 times! We are getting things done, but slowly ... and every few days we have to clean off the dust, Sahara sand, from Africa from our decks!! I have ridden around, up and through the "Rock" on a motorcycle and a bus. It is neat! We took a "Rock" tour yesterday. The Rock certainly has a bit of history associated with it dating back to early AD's. The most recent work, 35 miles of roads/buildings and facilities, circa WWI & WWII, etc. are military secrets, but we can certainly imagine from the areas we were allowed to see. The views from 1500 feet, the top, are good but it is usually very hazy and there is an underground limestone cave at about 1000 ft. above sea level that is really magnificent. This is called St. Michael's Cave. It has many tunnels and even a stage where they hold concerts because of the acoustics!! It is said that submarines can surface inside the Rock. The facilities (hospital, etc.) inside are self- supporting and there is more surface area inside the Rock than the visible area of Gibraltar. The modern water system for Gibraltar still uses thirteen large reservoirs inside the rock that were used long ago to hold water caught on the slopes. A whole new area along the waterfront has been developed in the last twelve years by fill and engineering and there is a great deal of construction still going on. We also had fun watching the Barbary Apes as we took our tour. These tailless apes were first introduced by the British during the 18th century. They say as long as the Apes live here, the British will rule Gibraltar. The marinas here are very good and reasonably priced, but the labor rates do contend with the US. We are not used to those kinds of costs! I certainly expect we'll see the same through most of the Med. We hope to get to Turkey before we come home for the holidays. Next year we plan to do a slower trip back through Greece, Italy, France and Spain. The winds around the Straights of Gibraltar build almost every day to 30 + kts and frequently higher. Everybody watches the weather closely before they transit across the Straights in either direction. There is also a significant current into the Med. This is due to the fact that the Atlantic supplies all the water for the Med and there is a large amount of evaporation that occurs because of the temperature. The tide does mitigate or add to the current a bit so the tide tables are almost as important as the weather forecasts. The world is an incredible place! Log Entry: August 15 We went across to Africa and took a tour in Tangier, Morocco. A bus drove us to a hydro-air ferry that had better seats than an airplane and less bumpy! When we got there, another bus took us through the city and to a camel ride. I got on first because I didn't want the camel tired and angry when I got on. He looked mean! Then we walked through the streets of Tangier and saw the markets where the people buy their food, clothing, etc. and where they work and pray. We went to a spice and herb demonstration. He gave a history and explanation of the spices. He showed us a magic lipstick and put a sample on all of the twelve-fifteen ladies. After awhile, he checked all of us. He then said that if the color didn't turn any color, you were frigid, and if it turned pink, you were normal and if it turned red, you were hot. There were two ladies whose lipstick sample turned red and he gave them a bag of ginseng for their husbands. I thanked him for the gift and didn't wash my lipstick off for the rest of the day! We visited an enclosed market where you can look at and buy rugs, leather goods, wood goods, etc. The mistake that I made was to look at an item. Then I had someone trying to sell it to me. The more I said "NO", the more the price went down. One rug started a $650 down to $350, and a piece of luggage went from $280 to $60. We left with nothing, but the salesmen were following us out of the building. Then all of the tradesmen came out into the streets like hungry vultures asking us to buy their goods. It was a very uncomfortable feeling. We then had a typical Moroccan lunch. After lunch we walked to our bus and again our group was followed by the tradesmen who were not taking NO for an answer!! I am glad I went, but would not go again!! Rudy and I have bought used bicycles for $30 each. We went across the border to Spain on them to find a bicycle shop. We found three!! We have new tires and a couple of other items, and we now have WHEELS!!! We celebrated by stopping for lunch in Spain. As we rode our bikes back to our boat, we crossed the isthmus which juts out into the sea. This is the only road that goes back and forth to Gibraltar and it crosses the airport's runway which is 100 yards from Spain's border. The first time across was a little unnerving, but then it became commonplace!!! We left Gibraltar on Wednesday, August 15th, and had to say good-bye to Kathy and Mike on Gitana. After spending almost everyday with them, going to dinner on each other's boat, watching their DVD movies on their large TV screen, taking tours together and just hanging out with each other, it was difficult to say good-bye. We hope we will meet up with them again as we both tour the Med. from different directions! We filled up with fuel in Gibraltar as it is the last inexpensive fuel place in the Med. We paid about $.75 gal! Trinidad was the last place we saw prices like that! By 10:00am we were on our way. We motor sailed to make time as we wanted to get to the Balearic Islands ASAP! As we were trying to push for Malaga, I noticed a strange object off our starboard beam. It looked like a wing several feet off the water about a mile away. I could just see it at that distance. I decided to investigate. So down came the sails and we headed straight for the object in the water. It turned out to be a catamaran that had capsized! There was a person standing on the side of one hull as it was lying with the mast and sail on the surface. He was frantic! He had lost a passenger! He looked secure and in no immediate danger and all he wanted us to do was to look for the other person. I immediately started in the direction he showed us. I also called a "MAYDAY" with no response although there were a few boats in the area. Eventually a small freighter, a research vessel and a small boat joined the search. I eventually got a response from Malaga radio that started a search and rescue effort. We spent a few hours searching with no luck, however, the rescue team, in their fast boat and with local knowledge of the water and currents, was able to find the missing person. They also helped right the vessel which was sailed to shore by the person with whom we initially spoke. A horrible situation that had a happy ending! We just happened to be in the right place at the right time. We had to leave Malaga for another day. Log Entry: August 27 Since we spent over two hours searching for the missing person on the catamaran, we could not go to Malaga as we intended. So we went to Puerto de Fuengirola. It was a small anchorage and adequate for an overnight. (Blue Jacket joined us) The next day we were still high from saving two people, but that was not to last for long. On August 16th, we went to Puerto de Motril and were anchored out of the shipping lane, we thought. Men in a dinghy approached our boat and starting yelling at us. He said he told us the day before to move our boat and if we didn't do it immediately tonight, he was going to give us a fine. We tried to explain we just arrived, but he refused to understand. We left immediately and found a quiet anchorage around the bend. Blue Jacket came past us and we told them what happened. Around 9:30 PM we were approached by Customs. They asked to board our boat. How could we refuse!!! When we asked if anything was wrong, they said no, but they wanted to see our boat papers. They were friendly, courteous and polite and they checked us into Spain! The next morning, we noticed Blue Jacket next to us. They told us that they were asked to move their boat at 11:30 PM but customs did not come aboard. The next day we found a great anchorage called Puerto Genoves. It had the clearest water, a pretty beach, beautiful scenery and it was quiet!!! We were tempted to stay there another night, but we decided to go to Cartengena as planned. After we checked in, we found a resturant and had a pleasant dinner. The next day, we took our bikes and toured the town. Since it was Sunday, EVERYTHING was closed. However, we did find a pastry shop. After pigging out, we decided to jump to the Balearic Islands. We left at 1:30 PM and got to Espalmador (nude beaches) at 9:30 am. It was a good trip with no problems. The beach was beautiful and most of the people on the beach had NO tan lines anywhere! In fact, we got caught up in "In Rome, do as the Romans do". Can you imagine the two of us walking hand in hand into the setting sun on a nude beach ....ugh!!!!! The next day we thought we would tour the island of Formentera. It didn't happen. First the water pump on the engine broke (boat became a steam bath) and then the mounts on the fuel pump broke and then we got a hole in the muffler for the exhaust!!! It was interesting anchoring without an Engine!!! Rudy had an extra water pump and fixed that and the mounts....MY HERO!!! However, he didn't have the part for the exhaust. So we limped to the marina where there was no room available. We then anchored right outside the marina, but that meant inflating the dinghy on the boat. What fun!! The next day we went into the town to see if we could find the part we needed with NO LUCK. We decided to go to Ibiza, hoping to find it there. We made it to Ibiza for another chance at "Med mooring. We have been used to large marinas that have fixed lines away from the dock so all you do is back or bow in, tie it, and pick the lines from the dock and pull them tight at the end away from the dock. The fixed lines are a little messy but the system works fine. When we came into Puerto de Ibizia we saw the other boats using the same process. We set lines etc. to dock bow first. The dock master said no!!! We needed to use our anchor to hold us off. Like Bermuda it was another goat rodeo changing the boat around and the two of us bringing the boat in stern first. It was sloppy but we did OK. We were there for a few hours and finally figured out the rudder was hitting bottom!! Another goat rodeo getting out and in again bow first and this time with their lines to hold us off. We hope that does it for a while. We stayed in Ibiza for three nights and didn't get the boat fixed, but we did get to tour the island in a rented car. It is a very interesting island with caves and a lot of different cultures in its history. On August 25th, we sailed to Palma, Mallorca. Bailing every half hour because the exhaust water was still leaking into the boat. We used the engine for about three hours of a twelve hour trip. We were very happy because the smell from the exhaust would have overpowered us!! It was nice to see that we could still sail well while beating into a 10-15kt breeze doing 6-7kts for over 50 miles. We made the 75 miles in reasonable time and started the engine to get ready to dock. Our bilge pump broke!!! What next?? We docked bow first with fixed lines to hold us off. No problem! Rudy had the spare parts to fix the bilge pump and the local yard will be able to replace the lift water muffler for the exhaust system. Maybe things will go right for a while! Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russell were eating dinner around the corner from our marina and didn't bother to say hello!! The security is very tight here so they probably weren't allowed in. We had dinner the next night under the lights of the Cathedral where they ate, but didn't spot them. Their loss!!!! Log Entry: September 13 We left Palma on September 6th at 6 am. It was still dark, but we had lights from the city and about five huge lit cruise ships in the harbor. We traveled to Playa del Trench. There were a few very long and beautiful beaches in that area. We tucked in for the night, had dinner, and went to bed. About 1:30 am we awoke to a thunder and lightning storm and then the winds started to pick up. The winds reached 45 knots as the front passed us. We held well, but a few boats didn't and another boat decided to re-anchor in the middle of all this. The next day we anchored at Porto Colom which was a great anchorage with some mooring balls as well as a small marina. On Saturday the 8th, we got our dinghy ready to investigate the town. We walked around and found many little shops and grocery stores and then had lunch. On Saturday the 9th, Gitana told us they were on the way. We did some work on the boat and waited for them. We were waiting for them on the quay wall as they came in and helped with their lines. After they were settled we all went to dinner at the same place Rudy and I had lunch the day before. On Monday the 10th, Rudy and I and Kathy and Mike (Gitana) rented a car and toured the east and north coast of the island. We went through the towns of Porto Cristo, Cala Millor and stopped to visit the Caves of Arta. The caves had higher ceilings than in Gibraltar. Inside one of the highest caverns was a stalagmite that was 22 meters high and the longest stalactite was 30 meters long. (it takes 100 years for one cm!!) and then we walked into Hell, Purgatory and up to Heaven. It is called Hell because it goes down to one meter above sea level. Then we climbed to Heaven through Purgatory and heard bell like sounds from the four stalactites as she hit them with her fist. We went to Cala Ratjada for lunch. It was a very interesting town with many shops and restaurants. We also looked in the outside harbor and decided that could be our next anchorage before we go to Menorca. Our next destination was to a castle on the border of Capdepera. After climbing over 200 steps, we had to climb as many to get to the top of the castle. After looking around we found a small church. We went to the top of the church for a better view and Kathy and I rang the Church's two bells!! We traveled to the towns of Arta, Can Picafort, and Alcudia. Here we looked around the harbor again. Next we went to Port Pollenca and went through the center of the island going through Manacor, Felanitx, and then back to our boat. The next day started out fantastic. We heard that Rod Steiger was on a sailboat in the vicinity and it was a beautiful day. We decided to put our bikes in the dinghy to shore while Kathy and Mike rented theirs. We rode all around the town, stopping for drinks and groceries. As we were coming back to our boat with the bikes, a man on a British boat waved us over. He said he was sorry to inform us about the devastation in NYC and the Pentagon and went on to explain. I thought he was telling us a sick joke and teasing us because he was British and we were Americans. He said he was telling us the truth and heard it on the BBC. We still couldn't believe it. Rudy picked up Mike and Kathy from shore and they told him they saw it on a TV at the bike rental place. They couldn't believe it either. We turned on their TV and were in shock for the next two days watching the horror!!! Sept. 13th, we traveled to Menorca. It was about a 60 mile trip. It started calm and ended with a nice breeze. We did motor sail the second half of the trip. It was a good passage. The harbor is large and has several marinas, moorings and anchorages. They do charge for anchoring though. In fact, it cost more to anchor than the moorings cost in Porto de Colom. Log Entry: September 26 We toured Menorca with Kathy and Mike on Gitana and John and Lyn Somma our dear friends from the states. John and Lyn were able to meet Kathy and Mike an hour before they left for Mallorca. We toured Menorca with both couples separately and found the island to be expectionally rich in pre-historic remains. The island has been described as an immense open-air museum. The majority of the sites are the work of the "talaiotic" people who lived between 2000-1000 B.C. and are named after the talaiots or huge stone towers that characterize the Menorcan landscape. There are hundred of these Bronze Age villages and structures around the island. We did not see ALL of them, but I will list the ones that were our favorites!! At Talati de Dalt we saw a taula that was over 10 feet high. Torralba d'en Salord was a whole village with written (English) explanations of each structure and their uses. Naveta des Tudons had a Naveta which looks like an over turned boat which was used for dwelling and/or burials. We were able to go inside all of these structures which were still standing after 4000 plus years. We visited the cities of Alaior, es Mercadal, Ferreries, and Ciutadella. At es Mercadel we went to Mare de Deu del Toro which is the highest point of the island and also ate at a restaurant in a windmill, once with Kathy and Mike for lunch and then several days later with Lyn and John for dinner. The best lunch however, was with Lyn and John at a restaurant in Ciutadella on the waterfront. Everything we had was fantastic. We also visited the cities of Cap de Cavalleria and Fornells to the north. We went to the south by car with Kathy and Mike to visit the caves at Cala en Porter called the Cales Coves. They were over 200 caves and we all climbed to visit and see as many as we could. After about five days, we took Lyn and John with our boat to see them from a different perspective. We had lunch and a swim in the beautiful aqua waters. We also went to the Menorca Museum in Mao which was excellent. They have housed all of the items found in all the sites with an explanation of each. There was also a short film on the different sites around the island which was VERY informative. We also had the pleasure of visiting the chapel of Santa Maria and listening to a half hour organ concert. This organ has more pipes than the organ in the Catherdral in Palma... over 3290!!! It was dedicated in 1810 and it still sounds great! We also had the best gazpacho soup and the best mussels in Mao. The last night in Mao, we played dominoes with Lyn and John while eating tapas (delicious appetizers) and sangaria. We then had dinner at a different restaurant and a third restaurant for dessert. Lyn and I were laughing so much after the third jug of sangaria that we were in tears!! John and Rudy looking at us in amazement!! We anchored most of the time just opposite the Collingwood Hotel which was the hotel where Lyn and John stayed. However, since a weather front was approaching we tied stern to, on one of the man-made islands, really floating docks. It had water, electricity and garbage removal. Then we moved to a small harbour closer to the entrance to Mao for a quick departure to Sardinia. That morning (9/25) we had a horrendous thunder, lightning and HAIL storm with winds over 45 knots and hail almost 1/2in in diameter. Two or three boats dragged and two boats did collide gently into each other. Not the best way to make friends, but the memories are lasting! I think everyone of the 10-15 boats had their engines on with some using them to get out of the way of other boats. As soon as the storm stopped, we were out of there and on our way to Sardinia. We dodged another storm shortly after leaving...thanks to Faith! I usually run right into the heart but she got us around it! About 2 hrs into our 200 mile passage the winds picked up enough to sail for a change. We looked back a while later and saw a huge thunder head and a squall line approaching. The sails came down and the radar came on to try and get the best path through the mess. We did OK! We had some wind, rain and hail...about 3/8in...but we were now going in the wrong direction. We turned around to follow the storm and saw off to our starboard side the first water spout we have ever seen....It was coming right at us. We did a quick U-turn and watched it and two more that started as the squall line passed by. They look just like tornadoes with the water as disturbed as the ground in all the pictures you have seen. Awesome power! The rest of the passage was easy with a lot of fuel used. Maybe next time the winds will be with us again! We are now in Italy and will be between Sardinia and Sicily for the next few days. Log Entry: October 5 We are in Sardinia! (9/26) The passage from Menorca was 30 hrs. I will miss their DELICIOUS CHEESE!! We anchored in Carloforte, Sardinia on the Isola Di Sant Pierto, the first night with plenty of room and good holding! Next morning we left for Cagliari which was a bit long for a day trip but we made it even though a good part of the trip was into the wind. We even had to tack a few times! The first day there we rode our bikes and did some errands and had lunch. Rudy had HORSE (Cavallo)! and I had seafood salad. I tasted Rudy's horse which wasn't bad. It tasted a little like beef, but the image of Trigger kept coming to mind!! The next two days we rented a car and toured the southern coast visiting the cities of Villasimus and then traveling up the east coast to Arrubiu. There we saw a Nuraghi site and a village called Su Putzu both from Middle Bronze Age. The Nuraghi sites were built during the Middle Bronze Age and these people traveled almost to the middle of the island and built their villages of stone on a high hill very similar to the Menorcans. From there we went to Serri where we visited another Nuraghi site. This was two huge areas with many different structures (church, forum, a couple of temples, forts and a well), but the structures were very incomplete. However, at Su Nuraxi at Barumini which dates from 1500 BC, the structures were almost all intact. It was a smaller area of buildings than Serri, but here we could go inside the main structure which had five towers each used for a different purpose (defense, Kings and Queens quarters, water, food storage on the North side, etc.) Also, outside the main structure were over eighty dwellings including a bakery and a flour mill. We then went on to the cities of Villanovaforru, Sandara and Sanhuri where we saw a Thirteenth Century Castle. This Castle is the only one still habitable of the eighty-eight built in Sardinia. We stopped to look at churches and took pictures of some interesting buildings and scenery. We had lunch near Orroli by a Dam. It was 5 km from the road into the Nuraghi site at Arrubiu. We were the only people there and we had great service and a delicious meal!! (no horse!) The next day we went to the towns of Sarroch and the ancient city of Nora. This site was different because it was on the shore jutting out into the sea on the south coast and not inland. In its day, it was the island's most important city, a role it continued to enjoy under the Romans. In AD 238, Nora became the capital of the Roman province of Sardinia. At this site, we saw Roman baths decorated with mosaics, a theater (we were on center stage!), a forum, mosaics in the hot and cold baths by the ocean, a church (where we sat under a palm tree and had lunch) paved roads and the city's water system and sewage systems. All of the archaeological sites we visited the last two days were still being excavated and they were still discovering ancient objects. We then drove to the towns of Santadi, Villaperuccio and my favorite town, San Separate!! This town is a living museum with murals and sculptures by the local artist Pinuccio Sciola. Some of the murals were so lifelike, we had to take a second look to figure out which person was painted and which ones were alive!!! The next three days we rode our bikes in the town visiting the Roman Amphitheater, Cathedral, Torre dell'Elefante, Villa di Tigellio (as Rudy would say, another pile of rocks! ) where there was a great bicycle store. We had lunch in outdoor cafes and people watched!! We also saw hundreds of flamingos. At first we thought they were buoys and then they took their heads out of the water and stood up!!! This is the area where they come every year. We also met a British family (two young daughters 16,18) that were moored next to us and we traded books and they borrowed our video tapes. We taught them to play dominoes and then we had to say good-bye which is still hard for me to do. Log Entry: October 13 When we had gone from Menorca to Sardinia and from Sardinia to Sicily, we heard US Navy Warships announcing themselves as a US Navy Warship on the VHF. It was both comforting and scary!!! We got to Acquasanta, Sicily at 7 PM on October 5th and then for the next three days we drove through the surrounding towns of Palermo. The first day we drove in the town of Palermo which is an experience in itself. There are so many motorcycles and cars zipping around each other without the aid of traffic lights!!! Picture New York City WITHOUT any traffic lights and then add many motorcycles and motor scooters to make it more interesting. People seem to close their eyes and drive!!! We have hardly seen any traffic accidents in all of our travels. We saw four in and around Palermo, one fatality on a bike and most included scooters or bikes. Japan was busy but this is crazy. We then left the town and drove to Bagheria. There we visited the Villa Palagonia which had an unbelievable collection of grotesque sculptured figures on top of the walls that surrounded the castle. On the second floor there was a room depicting the Labors of Hercules with marble work and mirrors and paintings on the ceiling. Cefulu was our next stop and we had a great lunch at a little restaurant with a balcony jutting out over the water. (Cucina Tipica Sicillana). We saw the Temple of Diana and Daphene, as legend would like us to believe is still there imprisoned in the rock into which she was transformed!! We looked at the marina there and at Termini and decided that neither would do. Then back through the maze of Palermo and to our boat!!! The next day (10/7) we took a picture of Hollywood or at least the sign!!! We decided to go inland to the town of Corleone where some of my ancestors lived. We found a quiet little park with benches and a fountain with goldfish and had our picnic lunch. We shared our scraps with two cats. We drove through the towns going south until we reached Agrigento on the southern coast and visited the Valley of the Temples. High on a hill sat three huge temples with many minor structures between them. We had dinner at a quaint Italian restaurant in Palermo. As we sat down we kept on hearing the word Americano on their TV. I heard the woman next to us speak English and asked if she understood what the newsmen were saying. She told us that America had just attacked Afghanistan. As we spoke, we found out that she and her husband live in New York City and were about three blocks away from the Twin Towers when they were hit. She said the City is still burning and the dust is everywhere, but it is the smell that is most disconcerting . On Monday, we visited the Cathedral in Palermo as well as the Palazzo dei Normanni and Cappella Palatine and drove past the Palazzo Preforia. Then we went through the depths of Palermo to the town of Segusta where we found a Doric Temple and a Greek Theater. We had lunch in Trapani at another great restaurant. Are there any bad restaurants in all of Italy? I don't think so!!!! On Tuesday, before we returned the car, we entered the Catacombs of Cappuccini. There we saw over 8000 wealthy Palermitans bodies, a few of them mummified, but most of them in a skeletal state, many are standing, some seated and others in caskets or crystal urns. What a way to end our stay in Palermo!!! Wednesday we woke up at 3:30 a.m. to travel almost 90 miles to Portarosa which is on the northeastern end of Sicily. For most of the day there was no wind and therefore no wave action. It was a good relaxing day with seeing a couple of dolphins. We got a little help from the wind but not much. A light wind was on our nose for only the last two hours of our trip. The entrance and docking at Portorosa Marina was uneventful. We actually may be getting used to this stuff! After staying two nights at this quiet summer resort marina, we decided to fuel up and spend the night in the bay west of the marina. It was beautiful there and we were the only ones who stayed overnight. Comparison: Sardinia vs. Sicily: We found that Sicily is greener, better maintained, farmed more (tree farms as well as more sheep and horses) and generally more pleasing to the eye than Sardinia. Both had pine trees as well as palm trees, olive trees and both had aquaducts and ruins popping up in fields as well as in cities! However, the men are much more handsome in Sardinia!! ARRIVEDERCI Italy! We will be back!!! Rudy and I did a great deal of soul searching and investigation on whether we should go to Turkey for the winter because of the world situation and decided to continue on with our plans. Many people who are living aboard their sailing vessels in Turkey wrote to us telling us there is no problem and they feel extremely safe. The Turkish people were, and are, very compassionate concerning the happenings on September 11th and are doing everything possible to make their stay in Turkey a pleasant one. So we will be starting our journey to Turkey tomorrow, hopping from one Greek Island to the next until we get to Turkey. In Turkey we will only be 30 miles from Greece, so a quick exit is always possible. Log Entry: October 20 Since we had a time factor, we had to sail through Greece without doing any sightseeing. Our main thought was to get to Turkey at least a week before we had to board the plane to spend the holidays at home. Below is an outline of how we traveled from Sicily to Greece. 10/13 We left the bay outside of Portorosa, Sicily at 7:30 am on our way 60 miles to Saline Joiche. When we got there, we found the entrance was silted over and we couldn't get in. So we continued on to Greece 212 miles away after a full day of traveling. 10/14 At night and all day we had confused seas and we both felt a little queasy. By about 6 PM, it became quieter and we could eat again. 10/15 After about 50 hours, we got to the port of Argostoli, Cephalonia, Greece which was a port of entry with free docking. Customs was friendly and helpful, but the police and passport control gave us a hard time. They told us we were in the EU for three months and had to leave??? We went back to customs and asked them if there was a problem and they said no??? We hope they are right! We had lunch in a cafe across from our boat and walked around the town. We found a movie theater and Captain Cornelius's Mandolin was playing. This was not only the town where the film was made, but where the actual events took place. We were right there! In the lobby they had many photos of the movie being made. 10/16 We arrived at Mesolongion and entered a long canal with houses on stilts. We anchored in a quiet bay and had a peaceful night. Side to docking on the quay was available. 10/17 The winds started to increase about 2PM. They reached 30 knots as we arrived at the island of Trizonia around 4PM. We were very happy to see this small but quiet unfinished marina (no fee). We met one Canadian couple on Laudance and a British couple on Bubbly Lady. Since there was a great restaurant which was very reasonable, Rudy and I ate dinner both nights we stayed there and even had breakfast!! The owners were brothers and told us we could pick some grapes, almonds, limes and pomegranates from their trees. The first night, twenty-five boats joined us in the marina. There was a rally of sorts. They were hired to bring a fleet of boats from the summer charter area to winter storage. They left the next day and it was very peaceful!!! The restaurant had showers, Internet and a washing machine. I had my sheets and towels washed and hung them on Boundless. A nice place to stop and you can't beat the price! We also found out about a Mediterranean Cruisers net on SSB, 8122.0. It is at 5:30 UTC for check ins and weather at about 5:45 UTC. We now have a place to get weather every day and a place to check in so somebody knows where we are! 10/19 We left at 7 am for Cornith with Bubbly Lady not far behind. Some dolphins joined us for a while, jumping and spinning in the water. I talked to them as I always do with a great big smile on my face!! As we approached the harbor, (very small) Laudance came on the VHF. Mike let us know that there were some areas that were very shallow and told us what our options were. We decided to go alongside in front of Laudance, just inside the breakwater. Bubbly Lady came in and went across the small harbor from us. We all went to the grocery store and had drinks on Bubbly Lady. Not a lot of room inside the harbor, but the price was right! 10/20 Today we woke up excited to be going through the Cornith Canal. Rudy called and was told that after the next ship, Boundless, Laudance and Bubbly Lady could go through. As the tug pulling the cruise ship through came to the end of the canal, the tug dropped his lines to the cruise ship and we started through the canal at 7.5 knots with a 1 1/2 kt current! This canal is one-way and a good thing because it looked like there was about two inches on both sides of the Cruise ship!!! The canal is 3.2 miles long, 81 feet wide, 250 feet high and dug out of limestone. It was started by Nero and finished by the Greeks in 1893, which probably makes it the longest construction project in history!! We saw a narrow path dug into the side of the canal's stone wall on our port side where men and horses pulled the boats through before tug boats were available. It was very exciting!!! We paid our money ($150 for the toll-- THE most expensive toll we have ever paid!!!) and went on our way to Ormos Anavissau just south of Vouliagmeni on the mainland. It was an anchorage in a quiet bay and Laudance was behind us the whole trip. We were happy to get there before the sun set in beautiful clear water. Rudy took a swim and checked the anchor and hull. Everything was in good shape!! My hero!!! MORE TO FOLLOW Log Entry: October 23 10/21 We traveled to the island of Sifnos in the harbor of Vathi 60 miles away with no wind, going 6-7 knots with a favorable current. It was a beautiful day for sailing, motoring, through the Greek islands. After we anchored and had a swim, Laudance rafted up to us and we had drinks on their boat. 10/22 Today we headed for Vlyshada, on the southern tip of Thira. The island is shaped like a new moon encircling the rim of the crater now filled with water. Legend has it that this is Plato's Atlantis. It vanished as a result of an earthquake and a huge volcanic eruption. The volcano is still active. It has the largest caldera (Spanish for pot) in the world and we sailed through it. The towns are all on the mountain sides and seem to be going up the mountain like steps with the roof of one, the floor of the next. The shear sides of the crater had so many different colors and formations that you could hardly take your eyes away from the magnificent sites. The plug was a huge heap of volcanic rock!!! The winds came up as we were approaching the marina which was a little tricky. Thank goodness we have great charts!! There were two other boats alongside the wall, Magic Carpet and Rag Timer. They too were going to Astypalaia the next day. 10/23 Today there is a caravan of four sailing vessels going to Skala, Astypalaia. After helping Laudance with their lines, we left the quay. We caught up with everyone and passed them when the winds picked up to about 20-25 knots. Of course, this wasn't a race except to Rudy and of course we came into the harbor first!! There was a Greek sailboat just pulling in ahead of us which gave us a hand with lines. We all had drinks on Magic Carpet who was anchored in the bay. Laudance gave us a ride in their dinghy so we didn't have to put ours into the water...thank goodness. It would have been a pain to put ours in and then put it back on the davits. While we were on the quay a HUGE (4 foot) Pink Pelican with a neck like a swan approached us. The pelican wasn't frightened and proceeded to follow a group of people the ten or so steps up to the restaurants, nipping a man in the butt because he was too slow. We were told that he is the mascot of the village snd therefore he is welcomed anywhere. We were on the far end of the same quay where the ferry comes in. At about 11:00 PM I heard the ferry. It goes stern-in to the dock and puts its engine into reverse. It sounded very close, so I looked out and couldn't believe my eyes. It was the biggest ferry I have ever seen. It was bigger than most cruise ships and it took up the whole mouth of the harbor. Log Entry: October 28 10/24 We left for Ormos Kamares, Kos, (another free night) leaving the other three boats (Laudance, Magic Carpet and Rag Timer) behind in winds of about 20-25 knots and seas building from the day before. The seas were choppy and rough and we were glad to come into the lee of the island after about 4-5 hours of splashing around. The winds were still blowing about 20 knots when we anchored. Maybe tomorrow it will be a little easier. On shore we noticed a restaurant with an American flag at half mast. I guess most of the world is compassionate. 10/25 As we started to leave Kos and sail to Simi, the water pump stopped working again. We turned off the engine and Rudy went to check. A different part of the water pump broke this time. Decision time; do we stay here and fix the water pump or do we sail in the 15-20 knots of wind gusting to 25 and fix it on the way??? Yep.. we sailed. We put all our sails up, reefed, and Rudy went to fix the water pump. Three hours later, Rudy replaced the water pump and we had an engine again. MY HERO!!! It was just in time too because we sailed into the lee of one of the many peninsulas of Turkey and the winds died down to nothing. Down came the sails and on went the engine....again. We had it planned that I would jump off the boat and do Customs in Simi while Rudy motored around and then anchor at a calm harbor south of the town. As we came to the town quay, the harbormaster told us that Customs would not be open for another 2 hours. So much for plans! Since we had to wait anyway we Med moored (dropping anchor and backing in) and decided to spend the night. (free mooring) It took us over an hour to clear Customs but everyone was friendly and cooperative. The town of Simi was charming! The cream houses with blue doors have been built one on top of each other up the steep sides of the inlet like a child's building block version of a town. Simi was once famous for its sponge divers and a few still do it for a living. We had a quiet dinner and made the boat ready for the next day. 10/26 Although we planned to sail to Marmaris, Turkey today, the forecast called for gale force winds and thunder showers. We therefore stayed and I baked while Rudy did boat things. Then the rains came and it poured!! I think the last time it rained this hard was going across the Atlantic. In between the rain, a single-handler came over to us and asked us to haul him up his mast. He had an old winch and it took two people. He was very appreciative and gave us a bottle of Greek wine. After awhile, a young German man came and asked Rudy if he could borrow his diving equipment because he had a line wrapped around his prop. When Rudy asked if anyone of the four had a license, they said not with them. Rudy didn't want to chance anyone killing themselves, so he dove and cleared the line around the prop. (He is a HERO to everyone!!) I learned that the line was put around the hull and dragged along to clean off their depth gauge with the engine on!! (Charter boats are so much fun!!) Well, we got TWO bottles of Greek wine for this job... maybe this could be our next line of work!! Can we live on wine? 10/27 We left Simi for Marmaris today and the skies darkened. About eight miles away there was a very severe thunderstorm with the biggest waterspout that we have ever seen in pictures and in real life!!! We were far enough away for it to be exciting and a wonder rather than dangerous and frightening!! WE HAVE ARRIVED IN TURKEY!!! We arrived in Marmaris and met with the manager Ufuk Sayer. He was warm and very kind to us. Then the marathon of checking in began. .(1.)pay for the transit logs...$30 US (2.)Health Dept. $3.50 (3.)buy a Visa $45 a person (4.) Passport inspection (5.)Customs (6.)Police and (7.)tomorrow we have to go to the Harbormaster. Everyone was friendly and helpful, but Rudy and I wanted to have a drink and some food. We went back to the boat and found the marina's laid mooring line holding Boundless away from the cement quay had parted and she was floating into the dock. Since there is a race this week with about 140 boats, they were very busy. So Rudy put a spring line to the boat next to us and told them they could fix it the next day. We finally went to have dinner... it was the most money we ever spent on a meal...56.5 million Turkish dollars ($56,500,000)!!! which in US money came to $35.($1.6 million=$1US) Rudy and I are MILLIONAIRES!!!! We wish... 10/28 When we woke up today, the mooring line was already replaced and fixed. I guess they did remember us!! We rode our bikes all through the marina and part of the town finding out where the important places are like laundry, photo shop and the movies!!! We had lunch and sat next to three marines who were on shore leave and stationed for the present in the Med. We chatted for awhile and we thanked them for protecting us and they wished us good luck in our adventure. They were all hoping their leaders would let them go in after Bin Laden. They will be added to my prayer list!! What a great day!! No traveling, no pressure, just relax and enjoy! We are impressed with Turkey. Log Entry: November 11 The last 16 days we have been cleaning and fixing and cleaning and fixing the boat... we need a vacation!!! We are also getting bids for work that has to be done when we come back to Turkey in January. In between, Rudy and I have been exploring the town by bike and visiting the bazaars. We also took a ride to the town of Antalya. We went the north route going and the southern route coming back. There was snow on the tops of some of the mountains! They do ski here! We visited the towns of Fethiye and had dinner there, Korkuteli where our hitch-hiker was dropped off (more about that later), Antalya where we have to go again to spend much more time and Kemer where we visited another marina. The southern route followed the coast and was about the darkest(it was night), longest winding road we have been on. Good thing there was a huge full Halloween Moon to brighten the road. When we picked up the hitch-hiker (a little old man ), I tried to speak to him, but since neither of us could speak the other's language, it was mostly hand waving and facial expressions!!! He blessed us for giving him a ride when he left us. He did make himself understood how sorry he was about the terror attacks. In fact, everywhere we go in Turkey, people express their compassion for the Sept.11 horror. People here are so very friendly, kind and helpful. Everywhere you go, they offer you Turkish tea and have you sit. Then they start asking questions wanting to find out all about you and your family. At the marina there is no place that I can do my own laundry. I just have to SUFFER and get my laundry... picked up at my boat, washed, dried, ironed (everything is ironed...EVERYTHING!!) and folded and brought back to the boat for $3.13 a load!! AND...the food is so reasonable I don't cook on board every night. The restaurant in the marina gives us 20% off (a roast beef hero normal price is less than $2!) and they gave us a free buffet the other night with trays and trays of food and desserts with punch, wine and champagne!! With all this free time, we joined the Sports Club which is less than 5 minutes from our boat for $15 a month and we will get an extra 25% off because we are a LIVEABOARD in the marina. It has a fully equipped physical fitness center, free weights, a full size basketball and volleyball court, a jogging track, two saunas, two whirlpools, squash court, six tennis courts, 4 bowling alleys, yoga, dance classes and aerobic classes as well as three cafeterias. I THINK I AM GOING TO LIKE IT HERE!!! Turkey is the first country we have visited that is Moslem. They have Mosques every few hundred feet it seems. At sunrise, sunset and five other times during the day, they say prayers over the loud speakers on top of the Mosques. Surprising... it became part of our daily living here and stopping mentally for a few minutes, several times a day, is mentally relaxing! (To me anyway.Rudy is always relaxed) We went bowling the other night. There were 10 of us. The first game Rudy got the highest score (167) and I came in second (127..2 strikes and a spare in the first three frames!!). Rudy was second by 5 pins in the second game with a 142, however it all went down the gutters for me!!! Tonight we had a BBQ with about 50-60 Liveaboards. Everyone brought their own drinks and meat and also a dish to share. It was another great way to meet people and share ideas. Today they also started a Yoga class which will meet 3 times a week. The boat is being pulled-out tomorrow morning and we found a three room apartment to stay in... the cost you ask... $17.50 a night with breakfast for two people!! After three nights in the apartment, we fly to Istanbul and tour that for three days and then fly to the states on Sunday. We have made an American contact who works in Istanbul and he has been so wonderful to us. He has made hotel and tour guide arrangements for us and since these people are friends of his, they are waiting for our arrival. Next stop ISTANBUL!