Passage to Saba Subject: Log February 17 Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2000 11:15:54 -0500 From: W2LSI@cho.win-net.org To: rudys03@ibm.net We finally got our act together and left St. Martin or Sint Maarten if you happen to be on the Dutch side of the island. We were ready at 7:00AM to go to the dock to get a fresh loaf of french bread for our lunch. When we returned to the boat we could see some squalls in the distance so we waited until they passed before we removed the dinghy outboard, placed it on the stern rail and hoisted the dinghy out of the water on the davits. We need to do this for passages to minimize stress and strain on the dinghy. It is a bit of a pain but in calm water it is not difficult. With the boat ready for a passage and the dinghy on board we left the harbor around 9:00 AM. We rounded the west end of the island and raised sails about 10:30. The winds were generally 10-15 out of the East with 4-6 ft. seas. This lasted most of the way to the island of Saba, about 25 miles South. We could see a substantial squall line but there was no way for us to avoid it. The winds picked up to 15-20 with gusts to 25 or 30 and seas of 6-8 ft. during the worst of the squalls. I think it was at its worst justbefore we passed to leeward of Saba at about 2:00 PM. Because the island gave us a bit of shelter we could easily lower the sails and get ready to pick up a mooring. There are only four moorings on the West side of Saba but they are free. We picked up a mooring and started to prepare to go into shore to clear customs and see what Saba was like. All in all it was a great sail! It hasn't been often that we can do a passage without the engine. We hit a max of 8 knots but averaged around 7 for the trip. It was a beam reach all the way. It did seem a little strange that there wasn't anybody else at these free moorings. It didn't take us long to figure out why. The winds came through the anchorage in gusts at about 15-25. There is also no protection from seas, just the island to the East of us. We did roll a bit and the winds gave us something to think about. We decided to wait until the next morning to try to lower the dinghy and mount the motor in the wind and rolling sea. Faith fixed a great dinner and another passage was under our belt. Saba Subject: Log Feb. 17th - Saba Date: Sat, 26 Feb 2000 23:16:08 -0500 From: W2LSI@cho.win-net.org To: rudys03@ibm.net Today we went ashore to clear customer and immigration after I sunk the boat hook. It got tangled in the mooring and it was so windy the boat swung away from the mooring. I ended up with the rubber handle in my hand. As the First Mate, my job was to fabricate a new boat hook. I got the oar and my gravy spoon and duct tape and presto.... a new boat hook. I tried it and got the mooring on the first try!!! Of course THE CAPTAIN does a fantastic job of getting and staying right by the mooring!!! (Rudy demands to be called THE CAPTAIN!!!) We took a tour of the Island which looks like a forbidden land of long ago. It has a 3000 foot mountain with a rain forest on top. The whole island is very steep with few flat spots. The houses sit in almost impossible positions on the edges of the cliffs. There are no beaches except occasionally during the summer when the waves deposit some sand on the West shore, which may only last for several weeks. Before, the airport came, I was told that a woman went up and down 800 almost vertical steps to the shore to get the mail. There are also higher inclines to the rain forest. Saba is a small island. It was populated initially around 1640 due to a shipwreck. The population is mostly white and the towns have names like Windward, Bottom, Upper and The Promised Land. The land looks inhospitable but for 1521 people it is a place called home. There is also a medical school on the island. There isn't much to distract the students from their studies. We did have an excellent lunch though. The Saban people were told by their government and engineers in the Netherlands that it was impossible to build a road across the island. Joseph Hassel thought otherwise. He took a correspondence course in engineering and began building the "road that couldn't be built" in 1906. He worked with a rotating crew of 20 people for 20 years to complete the road. It is incredible to see.....the turns, the steeps and all of the digging, filling and support that was accomplished without any mechanized equipment. In addition, all of the stones/rocks and concrete had to be carried by hand. There were no cars on the island until 1947. The road has had almost no washouts or collapses even through the hurricanes of the last several years. Hurricane Lenny destroyed their only harbor. It literally tossed 15-20 ton boulders into their harbor from the breakwater on the outside. We spent 2 nights in the anchorage on the West coast. The moorings are free to encourage tourists....their only industry. The wind howled through the anchorage all the time we were there. It was rolly but we did get some sleep. The diving is supposed to be wonderful in the waters around Saba. It is a wonderful island to visit! If you want a quiet vacation this may be the place for you.